CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back Panel – 2 QTY
- Back Panel Yoke – 2 QTY
- Front Panel – 2 QTY
- Pocket – 2 QTY
- Back Placket – 1 QTY
- Front Placket – 1 QTY
- Waistband – 1 QTY
- Fly Facing - 1 QTY
- Belt Loop - 1 QTY
- From Lining:
- Pocket – 2 QTY
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: fly facing, waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the fly facing, waistband, and the integrated placket allowance on the front panel.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, align the raw edges, and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it in the middle of the wrong side, and press. Stitch a double topstitch along the long sides at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Cut the belt loop piece according to the size.
- Mark the zipper placement on the pocket. Reinforce this area with a GRAIN LINE strip. Confirm zipper placement and cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the ends. Turn the SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side through the opening, and straighten the edges. Place the ZIPPER under the edges so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper.
- Stitch the patch pocket with the LINING, leaving the top and side raw edges free. Topstitch the pocket opening allowance with a double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Mark the pocket placement on the front panel and topstitch the vertical and bottom sides of the pocket at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the outer edge of the pocket, leaving the pocket opening free.
- Stitch the darts on the back panel, press the depths towards the center, and topstitch at 0.1 cm from the seam. Attach the yoke to the back skirt half. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam of the back panel, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side, and topstitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Trim the integrated placket allowance on the left front panel, leaving 2 cm. Overcast the center raw edges of the front panels. Stitch the center seam of the front panel from the zipper mark downwards, clip the allowance at the mark. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES to the right side, overcast, and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Press the integrated placket allowance on the right panel to the wrong side along the center front line, and on the left panel — 1 cm from the edge. Overcast the open raw edges of the fly facing and press it in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the ZIPPER under the edge of the placket allowance on the left side, close to the edge, positioning the teeth flush with the fold and placing the fly facing with the fold towards the center so that the overcast edge covers the zipper tape. Pin the slit, aligning the center front lines. Stitch the free zipper tape to the FACING of the right side of the placket, without catching the fabric of the front panel. Topstitch the fly, folding back the fly facing. Finish the stitching 2 – 2.5 cm before the center seam. Then, fold the fly facing back into place and continue the stitching to the seam.
- Stitch the side seams of the skirt up to the slit mark. Clip the seam allowance, press the upper part towards the back, press open at the slit level, and overcast. Topstitch the allowance with a double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the stitching seam, topstitch the slit allowances at 0.1 cm from the fold.
- Fold the back placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked placket attachment line. Turn right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the back panel, turn the allowance of the inner placket inwards, and topstitch with a double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Fold the front placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the shaped sides up to the mark. Turn right side out, press, overcast the buttonhole. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front panel, turn the allowance of the inner placket inwards, and topstitch with a double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Sew a button onto the back placket corresponding to the buttonhole.
- Fold the waistband piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides, turn right side out, press. Attach the outer part of the waistband to the upper raw edge, fold the allowance of the inner part inwards, and topstitch into the attachment seam. Overcast the buttonhole, sew on the button.
- Topstitch the belt loops onto the waistband according to the sketch, guided by the markings on the upper raw edges of the back panel yokes and front panel.
