CUTTER'S MUST
- FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- Left upper BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- Right upper BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- Middle BACK PANEL 1 - 1 QTY
- Middle BACK PANEL 2 - 1 QTY
- Lower BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
Sewing Instructions
Tip: To prevent the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL from stretching during work, reinforce the princess seam allowances with a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING, 1.2 cm wide, before you start. Do not reinforce the edge along which the pleats are laid.
- On the FRONT PANEL, lay and secure the pleats along the princess seam as follows: start from the bottom pleat and lay all on the right side. Join the two bottom marks together, directing the resulting inner fold downwards. Pin the pleat. Join the next two bottom marks together and pin (directing the inner fold downwards), and so on. The inner folds of all pleats are directed downwards.
- Stitch the vertical princess seam allowances of the FRONT PANEL. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the bottom corner diagonally, overcast the seam, and press it towards the left side. Form the excess fabric at the bottom of the seam into a pleat and press the inner fold towards the left side seam. Secure the pleat from the wrong side with blind stitches.
- Stitch the darts on the lower BACK PANEL. Press the darts towards the center of the piece.
- Stitch the middle BACK PANELs together. Press the seam upwards and overcast. Stitch the shoulder seams. Overcast the seam and press it towards the BACK PANEL.
- Cut (if not pre-made) BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length and neckline length. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the TRIM STRIP along the neckline edge on the right side and stitch, clip the seam, fold the TRIM STRIP to the wrong side, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Attach the upper BACK PANELs to the middle part. Press the seam downwards and overcast. Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANELs. Press the seam upwards and overcast.
- Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the TRIM STRIP along the armhole edge on the right side and stitch, clip the seam, fold the TRIM STRIP to the wrong side, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the right side seam of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Insert the ZIPPER from the upper edge to the NOTCH. Fold back the lower part of the ZIPPER and stitch the side seam from the NOTCH downwards. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the left side seam, press the seam towards the BACK PANEL and overcast.
- Even out the hemline. Press the hem allowance of the dress to the wrong side, fold inwards another 1 cm, and topstitch. Addition: depending on the fabric structure, the neckline and armhole edges can be finished not with BIAS BINDING, but with FACINGS. For this, self-cut the FACINGS for the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL according to the upper patterns.
