Coat with Wide Cut-On Collar
A women's lined coat below the knee with a wide collar cut in one with the fronts, a one-button front and a separate tie belt. Stitched pleats at the waist on the front and back shape the coat under the belt.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over suits, dresses and knitwear.
- Belted for a defined waist, or worn open with the belt left off.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped at the waist by stitched pleats.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Wide collar and lapels cut in one with the fronts and the front facings, joined by a centre back collar seam. Front edge, lapels and collar are topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Set-in, one-piece sleeves with a single seam, with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: One button and buttonhole at the waist, plus the tie belt.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with stitched pleats at the waist pressed towards the centre.
Waist: Belt cut 12 cm wide and 150–170 cm long, folded in half and topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge all round.
Finishing: Front facings and back neck facing interfaced; hem allowance 3.5 cm on the coat and sleeves, coat hem sewn by hand with blind stitches.
Lining: Full lining with sleeves, sewn to the facings and to the sleeve hems; the lining hem is turned twice and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar cut in one with the front and facing, a fully lined coat with set-in sleeves, shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a hand-sewn hem.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece (width in cut 12 cm, length 150 – 170 cm)
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut without considering the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively.
From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing and back neckline facing.
- Mark, fold, and stitch pleats on the back and front according to markings. Press pleat depths towards the center of the pieces.
- Clip the shoulder seam allowance of the front at the corner. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the center seam of the collar on the front pieces, press seam allowances open. Attach the lower collar to the back neckline. Clip and press the attachment seam open.
- Clip the shoulder seam allowance of the front facing at the corner. Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, press seam allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar on the front facing pieces, press seam allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the facing neckline. Press the attachment seam open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge, lapel, and collar edge. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim the seams of the lower front corners, clip seam allowances at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front, lapel, and collar. Overlock the bottom edge and press to the wrong side.
- Stitch side seams, press seam allowances open and overlock.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch and overlock seams and set in sleeves, similar to the main fabric pieces.
- Turn up the bottom edge seam allowance of the lining twice and topstitch. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching at half the width of the main garment's bottom hem. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out. Hem the bottom of the coat with blind stitches.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole; on the left front, sew on a button.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the seam allowances of the unstitched section, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.
