Dropped Waist Dress

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Lower center BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
• 2. Lower side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Upper BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
• 4. BACK PANEL waistband – 1 QTY
• 5. Lower side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 6. Lower center FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
• 7. Upper FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
• 8. FRONT PANEL waistband – 1 QTY
• 9. COLLAR stand – 2 QTY
• 10. Placket – 4 QTY
• 11. Pocket – 1 QTY
• 12. Belt – 1 QTY
• 13. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 14. Belt loop – 8 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• 1. Placket – 2 QTY
• 2. COLLAR stand – 1 QTY
• 3. Belt loop – 4 QTY

Sewing Instructions

Attention: Topstitch 0.1 cm from the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the seams and around the perimeter of the belt loops and plackets, using thread matching the main fabric.

1. Fuse the FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the corresponding pieces.
2. Fold the belt loop pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the upper edge free. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the belt loops right side out. Straighten the seams and press. Topstitch.
3. Cut a rectangle for the pocket binding, 3.8 cm wide and with a length equal to the length of the upper edge of the pocket pattern. Fold the piece in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Then unfold the piece and press the longitudinal edges towards the fold. Stitch along the upper and lower edges of the pocket with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Press the side and lower SEAM ALLOWANCES of the pockets to the wrong side. Align the pocket with the pattern. Bind the upper edge of the pocket.
4. Mark and stitch the darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL pieces. Press the bust darts upwards, and the waist darts towards the center. Topstitch along the darts. Press. Attach the pocket to the FRONT PANEL according to the markings.
5. Fold the plackets right sides together and stitch: the left placket along the inner edge to the corner, the right placket along the inner edge, simultaneously stitching the corner. On the right placket, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the edge of the corner stitching. Turn the pieces right side out and press. On the FRONT PANEL, precisely clip the placket allowance at the corners according to the markings, stopping 1 mm before the seam line. Stitch the outer parts of the plackets to the FRONT PANEL, aligning the NOTCHES. Turn the plackets right side out, straighten and press, pressing the seam towards the placket. Turn the SEAM ALLOWANCE inwards from the wrong side of the plackets and baste. Turn the end of the left placket to the wrong side along with the triangle, leave the end of the right placket on the right side. Topstitch along the long edges of the placket, simultaneously stitching the inner edge. From the wrong side, secure the triangle with the end of the left placket. Topstitch the end of the right placket to the FRONT PANEL.
6. Stitch the lower FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL pieces. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge. Topstitch. Attach the lower parts to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL waistbands respectively. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards, serge and topstitch. Attach the belt loops to the upper edge of the BACK PANEL (FRONT PANEL) waistband according to the markings. Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces, serge the seam and press downwards. Fold the belt loops upwards and topstitch along the waistband. Fold the belt loops downwards, creating a slight overhang, and stitch to the lower seam.
7. Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press the seams towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
8. Fold the COLLAR stand pieces right sides together and stitch. Start and end the stitching precisely at the seam line for attaching to the neckline. Turn the COLLAR stand right side out and press. Stitch the outer side to the neckline, press the seam towards the COLLAR stand. Turn the inner edge under and topstitch into the COLLAR attachment seam. Topstitch the COLLAR stand along the contour.
9. Along the SLEEVE cap and lower edge, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. The finished length of the lower SLEEVE edge is equal to the arm circumference + 5 cm (remember to account for SEAM ALLOWANCES). Cut a rectangle for binding the lower SLEEVE edge, 3.8 cm wide and with a length equal to the length of the lower SLEEVE edge. Fold the piece in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Then unfold the piece and press the longitudinal edges towards the fold. Bind the lower SLEEVE edge. Press. Stitch the SLEEVE seam. Serge the seam and press. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning the NOTCHES. Serge the seam and press towards the SLEEVE.
10. Turn the hem of the tunic twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
11. On the placket, overcast the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
12. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the belt on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the belt right side out and press. Topstitch a double decorative stitch along the contour of the belt at 0.1 and 0.8 cm from the edge.