Draped Front Asymmetrical Hem Dress

Name: Draped Front Asymmetrical Hem Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5793
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5793

A women's dress in knit fabric, just below the knee, with a raised waist seam and a crossover front bodice that is pleated at the neckline and gathered at the waist seam. The skirt has three layers: an asymmetric front overlay with a hemmed vertical edge, an outer skirt and a longer inner skirt. Three-quarter sleeves are gathered into bound edges, and ties from the side seams bow at the back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with medium or low stretch, from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Draped Front Asymmetrical Hem Dress

When To Wear

Spring and autumn, with court shoes or ankle boots.
Family celebrations and daytime events.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with bust darts, raised waist seam, skirt widening towards the hem.

Length: Just below the knee; all hem edges finished with a narrow rolled overlock hem, slightly stretched.

Neckline: Wide round neckline finished with an interfaced facing, understitched.

Front: Two upper fronts with a diagonal crossover edge, turned under and topstitched. Pleats are folded at the upper edge and gathers run along the lower edge to the first notch; the right front laps over the left and both are basted together at the lower edge.

Sleeves: Three-quarter set-in sleeves, gathered at the lower edge and bound with knit tape.

Back: Upper back in two pieces with a centre back seam. Two ties, stitched closed on three sides, are caught into the side seams of the outer skirt 1 cm below the waist seam and tied at the back.

Skirt: The asymmetric front overlay is basted to the outer lower front; the outer skirt (lower front and lower back) sits over the inner skirt (inner front and inner back), and all layers are joined to the bodice in one seam.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A crossover bodice with pleats and gathers faced at the neckline, three skirt layers joined in one seam, bound gathered sleeves and rolled hems in knit fabric.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with medium or low stretch, from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front and back neckline facings)
Knit tape (or bias binding), 4 cm wide, for the sleeve hems

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Upper Back – 2 pieces
Lower Back – 1 piece
Inner Back – 1 piece
Upper Front – 2 pieces
Inner Front – 1 piece
Lower Front – 1 piece
Front Skirt – 1 piece
Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Waistband (tie) – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also sew pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse fusible interfacing to the back and front neckline facings. Serge the outer edge of the facings.
Upper Front: stitch the bust dart. Cut the dart open, serge and press. Serge the bias (crossover) edge, fold it under and topstitch. Fold the pleats along the marked lines on the upper edge. Along the lower edge, from the edge to the 1st notch, sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather. The gathering amount is indicated on the pattern. Place the right Upper Front over the left, then place the Front Neckline Facing face down on top, aligning the notches on the facing and the bias edge of the front. Stitch the neckline of the front, stopping 7 cm before the shoulder seam. Baste the left and right Upper Front pieces together along the lower edge.
Stitch the center back seam. Serge and press the seam open.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the upper back and front. Serge and press the seams towards the back.
Stitch the Front Neckline Facing and Back Neckline Facing together at the shoulders. Serge and press the seams. Stitch the back neckline and the unstitched sections of the front neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, press, and topstitch the seam allowance to the facing.
On the Front Skirt, serge, fold under and topstitch the vertical edge. Finish the lower edge with a narrow rolled hem. Baste the Front Skirt to the Lower Front along the upper edge.
Fold the Waistband (tie) pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along 3 sides. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
Place the Lower Front and Lower Back right sides together. Insert the ties into the side seams, 1 cm from the upper edge, and stitch. Serge and press the seam towards the front.
Stitch the side seams of the Inner Back and Inner Front. Serge and press the seams towards the back.
Place the assembled outer skirt (Lower Front and Lower Back) over the inner skirt (Inner Front and Inner Back) and baste them together along the upper edge. Stitch the skirt to the bodice. Press the seam allowances down and serge.
Along the lower edge of the sleeve, sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather. Bind the edge with the knit tape or bias binding. Stitch the sleeve seams. Serge and press the seams.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches. Serge and press the seams.
Serge the lower edges of the garment with a narrow rolled hem, slightly stretching the seam.