Jacket with Waist Inset & Belt
A women's hip-length jacket with a stand collar, princess seams, two patch pockets on the chest and a separate waist inset band with slits for a tie belt. The lower part is attached to the inset with pleats.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light jacket over a blouse or knit top.
- With trousers, jeans or a straight skirt, belted at the waist.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bust by princess seams, marked waist with a horizontal inset band, slight fullness below from pleats.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, open at the front where the lapel edge turns into a V; topstitched 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with a gathered sleeve cap.
Closure: Single-breasted button closure with buttonholes on the right front; front facings.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the chest with a 3 cm turned-down upper edge, attached with double topstitching.
Back: Back yoke, princess seams, a waist inset made of centre and side parts, and a lower back with pleats.
Waist: Interfaced inset band in front and back with slits for the belt; the inset is faced on the inside with lining fabric. The belt is a single folded strip, topstitched all round.
Finishing: Double topstitching at 0.1 and 0.7 cm along princess seams, yoke, inset seams, front edges and collar; hem of garment and sleeves topstitched at 0.7 and 1.4 cm.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panels with matched double topstitching, a stand collar set between jacket and facing, a lined waist inset with belt slits, pleats and a gathered sleeve cap.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (waist inset facing)
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, collar stand, back neck facing, waist inset pieces)
- 5 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back – 1 piece
- 2. Side back – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 4. Center back insert – 1 piece
- 5. Side back insert – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower back – 1 piece
- 7. Side front – 2 pieces
- 8. Center front – 2 pieces
- 9. Center front insert – 2 pieces
- 10. Side front insert – 2 pieces
- 11. Lower front – 2 pieces
- 12. Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- 13. Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 14. Back Neckline facing – 1 piece
- 15. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 16. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 17. Belt – 1 piece
- 18. Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back insert – 1 piece
- 2. Front insert – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, collar stand, back neckline facing, center back insert, side back insert, center front insert, and side front insert.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, starting and ending the seam strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the collar stand right side out, and press.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back. Press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the stitching lines.
- Press the upper edge of the pocket to the wrong side, fold under, and topstitch with a double seam. Press the pocket seam allowances to the wrong side, place on the front, and topstitch with a double seam.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Press seam allowances towards the yoke, serge, and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the attachment seam.
- Stitch the side seams of the upper back and front parts, press seam allowances open and serge. Stitch the side seams of the lower back and front parts, press seam allowances open and serge.
- Attach the side back insert to the center insert. Attach the side front insert to the center insert. Press seam allowances towards the center and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the stitching lines. Stitch the side seams of the inserts, press seam allowances open. Serge the belt slits on the insert according to the markings. Stitch the side seams of the back and front inserts made of lining fabric. Press seam allowances open. Serge the lower edge.
- Fold the main and lining fabric inserts along the upper edge right sides together, place the upper of the jacket between them, and stitch. Turn the inserts down. Attach the lower of the jacket to the main fabric insert, forming pleats according to the markings. Press the seam seam allowances towards the insert. Topstitch the lower serged edge of the lining insert into the attachment seam of the main fabric insert to the lower of the jacket. Stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the insert attachment seams.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Press seams open and serge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is done from the front side. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press seam allowances open and serge. Serge the outer edge of the front facing and the back neckline facing. Attach the upper collar stand to the jacket neckline, attach the lower collar stand to the neckline of the facing and front facings. Clip the attachment seams at the curves, press open, and secure together. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams, and press. Stitch a double topstitch along the front edge and along the collar stand edge at 0.1 and 0.7 cm. Secure the front facings at the shoulder seams with a 1 cm tack.
- Stitch, press open, and serge the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch, press open, and serge the front seam of the sleeve. Stitch along the upper of the sleeve cap with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the upper of the sleeve cap between the marks.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press seam allowances and serge.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment and sleeves. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and stitch a double topstitch at 0.7 and 1.4 cm from the edge.
- On the right front, serge the buttonholes. Sew buttons on the left front accordingly.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, fold the seam allowances of the unstitched section inward, and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.5 cm around the perimeter of the belt.
