Jacket with Loops Closure
A women's short, unlined jacket with a notched collar, short puff sleeves gathered into an elasticated frill, and three buttons fastened with rouleau loops. Front and back are cut in upper and lower parts joined by a shaped horizontal insert, with gathers under the bust.
When To Wear
- In late spring and summer over a dress or a sleeveless top.
- With a pencil skirt or slim trousers for the office or a daytime event.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by vertical seams in the upper and lower parts of the front and back.
Length: Short, ending around the high hip.
Collar: Notched collar with separate upper and under collar, the upper collar interfaced.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves, gathered at the cap; the hem is drawn in with 0.5 cm elastic cut to the upper arm measurement, which forms a frill.
Closure: Edge-to-edge front, 3 buttons on the left front and bias-cut rouleau loops set into the right front edge.
Front: The centre front is gathered into a curved insert under the bust; the insert seams are topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam.
Back: Centre back seam and a matching curved insert, also topstitched 0.1 cm from the seams.
Finishing: Interfaced front facings and back neckline facing; seams overlocked; hem turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panels and inserts to match, gathers distributed between notches, a notched collar set between jacket and facings, and making rouleau loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, upper collar)
- Elastic, 0.5 cm wide
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center upper back – 2 pieces
- 2. Center lower back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side upper back – 2 pieces
- 4. Side lower back – 2 pieces
- 5. Back insert – 2 pieces
- 6. Center upper front – 2 pieces
- 7. Center lower front – 2 pieces
- 8. Side upper front – 2 pieces
- 9. Side lower front – 2 pieces
- 10. Front insert – 2 pieces
- 11. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 12. Lower collar – 1 piece
- 13. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 15. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: Front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the front facing, back neckline facing, and upper collar with fusible interfacing.
- Place the upper collar on top of the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge, starting and ending the seam precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out. Press seams flat and iron the collar.
- Attach the side upper back to the center upper back. Press the seam towards the center and overlock. Attach the back insert to the upper, press the seam towards the insert and overlock. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the attachment seam. Attach the side lower back to the center lower back. Press the seam towards the center and overlock. Attach the lower back to the insert, press the seam towards the insert and overlock. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the attachment seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam to the left side and overlock.
- Attach the side upper front to the center upper front. Press the seam towards the center and overlock. Along the lower edge of the center, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the lower edge. Attach the front insert to the upper, distributing the gathers between the notches, press the seam towards the insert and overlock. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the attachment seam. Attach the side lower front to the center lower front. Press the seam towards the center and overlock. Attach the lower front to the insert, press the seam towards the insert and overlock. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the attachment seam.
- Cut a 3 cm wide bias binding strip for buttonholes from the main fabric at a 45-degree angle. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the seam allowance to 0.5 cm. Turn the strip right side out and form an even cord. Cut buttonholes from it to match the button diameter. Baste the buttonholes to the right front according to the markings.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the collar attachment notch. Trim seams at corners. Turn the front edges right side out, press seams flat.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch, press open, and overlock the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Overlock the open edge. Attach the lower collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Clip the corner on the front and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the front precisely along the marked hemline.
- Stitch, press open, and overlock the sleeve seam. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the sleeve cap. Attach the sleeve to the armhole, evenly distributing the gathers between the notches.
- Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and baste. Cut a piece of elastic equal to the upper arm circumference, stitch it into a loop, place it on the wrong side of the hem allowance and topstitch with a zigzag stitch.
- Overlock the lower edge of the jacket, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Mark and sew buttons on the left front.
