Double-Breasted Jacket with Flared Sleeves
A hip-length women's double-breasted jacket with a shirt collar on a stand, princess seams front and back, and sleeves cut across the upper arm into a fitted upper part and a flared lower part. Vertical welt pockets are set into the front waist darts. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- At the office over blouses, with straight trousers or pencil skirts.
- In spring and autumn as a light jacket over fine knitwear or dresses.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, semi-fitted body shaped with princess seams on the fronts and back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Pointed shirt collar sewn between two stand pieces, topstitched along the edges.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves with a horizontal seam on the upper arm joining the upper sleeve to a flared lower sleeve ending below the elbow; seam allowances pressed towards the upper part.
Front: Double-breasted with six buttons in three pairs, the top pair just below the collar; buttonholes on the right front. Centre fronts are cut in one with the facings; the front edges are topstitched.
Pockets: Vertical welt pockets: each welt is topstitched on three sides and caught into the cut-open front waist dart.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and shoulder darts.
Lining: Full lining with one-piece lining sleeves (upper and lower sleeve joined), sewn to the facings and to the jacket and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welts inserted into darts, a collar on a stand set between the jacket and facings, princess seams and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or synthetic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts with cut-on facings, collar, stand, back neck facing, welts)
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front (with cut-on facing) – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: the front and back lining pieces are cut minus the width of the front facings and Back Neckline Facing respectively. Before cutting the sleeve lining, join the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve patterns into one.
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front with cut-on facing, Stand Collar, Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Off-Set Welt.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Fronts with cut-on facing, Stand Collar, Collar, Back Neckline Facing and Off-Set Welts.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Trim, turn out the corners and press. Stitch the two Stand Collar pieces together, inserting the collar between them. Turn to the right side and press.
- Fold each Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the welt right side out and press. Topstitch along the short sides and one long side.
- Stitch the shoulder darts on the back. Press them towards the center back. Cut the front waist dart open along its center, insert the welt between the dart legs according to the markings, and stitch the dart. Trim the excess dart fold and press towards the center front.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Press seam allowances towards the center front. Stitch the princess seams of the back. Press seam allowances towards the center back. Stitch the center back seam of the back. Press seam allowances to the left side.
- Fold the cut-on front facing to the right side and stitch across the top from the front edge to the center front line. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the front facing to the right side, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts. Press seam allowances towards the Upper Sleeve. Stitch the sleeve seams, press seam allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and Back Neckline Facing and press open. Place the facings and the garment right sides together and, inserting the collar between them, stitch the neckline. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the lower corner, trim seam allowances. Topstitch along the front edge and collar.
- Mark and press the hem of the jacket and sleeves to the wrong side. Stitch the hem of the sleeve and garment with the lining. Turn the jacket to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, mark and make the buttonholes. Sew on buttons according to the markings.
