Cape with Stand Fur Collar
A hip-length women's cape jacket with a stand collar, a front zip, princess seams and flared cape sleeves set into those seams. In-seam pockets sit in the front princess seams, and a long-pile faux fur collar buttons onto the stand. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and winter over knitwear and blouses, with the fur collar attached.
- Without the fur collar in spring, with trousers or straight skirts.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight body shaped by princess seams from the shoulder, with wide flared cape sleeves over the arms.
Length: Hip length, with a 3 cm hem faced with the lining.
Collar: Interfaced stand collar topstitched around its edge. Detachable faux fur stand collar, lined, fastened to the collar stand with five cord loops and five small buttons.
Sleeves: Cape sleeves cut in front and back halves, lined to the hem and stitched into the princess seams of the back and front; the armhole edges of the cape and lining are topstitched together 0.1 cm from the edge.
Closure: Zip along the front edge and collar stand, topstitched.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the front princess seams.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Lining: Full lining including sleeves and pocket bags, sewn to the front facings and back neck facing and turned through an opening in the left side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Princess seams sewn in one pass with lined sleeves and pocket bags inserted, a zip set between garment and facing, a bagged lining and a detachable fur collar.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or synthetic fibres. Long-pile faux fur for the collar.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, collar stand, back neck facing)
- Zip
- Thin cord for five button loops
- 5 small buttons for the fur collar
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Collar Stand – 1 piece
- From faux fur:
- Collar Stand – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: Center front, Front facing, Collar Stand, Back neckline facing.
Attention: lining details for front PANELs and back PANELs are cut without considering the width of the front facings and the back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the center front PANELs, front facings, collar stand, and back neckline facing.
- Stitch the upper edge of the sleeve details from the main fabric. Stitch the upper edge of the sleeve details from the lining fabric. Clip and press open the seam allowances. Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side. Finish the sleeve hem with the lining. Align the edges of the main and lining fabrics, and then treat the sleeve as one piece.
- On the right side of the side front, place the pocket bag from the main fabric along the notches and stitch. On the center front, place the pocket bag from the lining fabric face down and stitch.
- Stitch the center back seam. Press open the seam allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the center back PANELs and front PANELs. Stitch the shoulder seams of the side back PANELs and front PANELs. Press open the seam allowances.
- Set in the interfaced collar stand into the neckline. Clip and press open the seam allowances.
- Fold the front PANELs right sides together, align the edges, and measure the length of the front edges. Stitch the zipper to the edge of the front and the collar stand.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back and front in one seam, inserting the prepared sleeve between them, and simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Press the seam allowances towards the center of the back and front respectively. Stitch the side seams. Press open the seam allowances.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the front facing and facing. Set in the non-interfaced collar stand into the neckline. Fold the front facing with the front right sides together, align the edges, and stitch the front edge and the upper edge of the collar stand in one seam. Trim the seams at the corners, clip at curves.
- On the lining pattern pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Press the lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press the armhole seam allowances on the main garment and the lining to the wrong side. Fold the armholes of the cape and lining together and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Finish the lower corner of the front edge, trim the seam allowances. Finish the garment hem with the lining. Turn the cape right side out, baste, press. Sew shut the technological opening. Topstitch along the zipper and around the perimeter of the collar.
- Detachable collar. Cut the cord into 5 pieces and form each piece into a loop. Baste the ends of the loops to the upper edge of the collar stand above the center, at the shoulder seams, and 1 cm from the front edge. Fold the lining with the faux fur collar stand right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving a small unstitched section in the lower seam. Clip the seam allowances at curves, trim corners. Turn the collar stand right side out. Neatly sew shut the technological opening. Place the faux fur collar on the cape's collar stand and mark button positions from the inside according to the loops. Sew on buttons.
