Shawl Collar Jacket
A short, fitted women's jacket with a rounded shawl-shaped collar, a double-breasted four-button front and two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents. Shaped by vertical darts on the front and back; fully lined.
When To Wear
- To the office or to dinner over a dress or with high-waisted trousers and skirts.
- Spring and autumn, over blouses and fine knitwear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by vertical darts on the front and back.
Length: Cropped, ending at the waist.
Collar: Shawl-shaped collar with a rounded edge, cut as a collar and a lapel joined by a seam near the shoulder. The under collar is set into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with a vent at the lower end of the elbow seam, closed with three small buttons on each sleeve.
Front: Double-breasted, four buttons in two pairs, buttonholes on the right front; separate interfaced front facings.
Back: Centre back seam and vertical darts.
Finishing: Front edges understitched 0.2 cm from the seam (onto the facing along the closure, onto the front along the lapel); shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining with two-piece lining sleeves, attached to the facings, back neck facing and hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A two-part collar and lapel set between the jacket and the facings, mitred sleeve vents, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, fronts, back neck facing, collar, lapels)
- 4 buttons
- 6 smaller buttons for the sleeve vents
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lapel – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Front, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Front, Collar and Lapel.
- Mark the darts on the Back. Stitch and press them towards the center. Mark the darts on the Front. Stitch and press them towards the center.
- Stitch the Lapel to the Collar and press the seam open.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Set the under collar (with its Lapel) into the neckline of the Front and Back. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing and press them open. Set the upper collar (with its Lapel) into the neckline of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing. Press the seam open.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, lapel and outer collar edge. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the lower front corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowance: along the button closure – to the facing; along the lapel – to the Front, 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out and press the seams into shape.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the Lower Sleeve and Upper Sleeve. Press the elbow seam open, clip the allowance and press the vent. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hems of the jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons. Mark and sew on buttons on the sleeve.
