Cropped Cargo Trousers with Elastic Sides and Back
Cropped women's cargo trousers that end below the knee, with curved topstitched seams down the front and back legs, flap patch pockets at the sides, slanted front pockets, a zip fly and a waistband elasticated at the sides and back.
When To Wear
- In summer with T-shirts, shirts and flat shoes or trainers.
- For walks, travel and weekends.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight legs.
Length: Cropped, below the knee.
Waist: Interfaced fold-over waistband, flat at the front, with elastic stitched on vertically at the sides and back so the fabric gathers there. Four belt loops.
Closure: Zip fly with a fly shield; one button and buttonhole on the waistband.
Front: Each front is cut in three parts: a centre front, a side front that forms the back of the pocket, and a side panel joined by a curved seam running from the hip to the hem, topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Slanted front pockets with lining-fabric bags, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge. Two patch pockets at the sides of the legs, each with an interfaced flap topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Back: Darts at the waist and a curved, topstitched seam on each leg matching the front.
Finishing: Seat seam stitched twice; 2 cm hem, pressed up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip fly with a fly shield, slanted pockets, flap patch pockets, topstitched curved seams and a part-elasticated waistband with belt loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Natural-fibre fabrics with added elastane.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (waistband, fly shield, flaps)
- Zip for the fly
- 1 button
- Elastic tape
Cutting Plan
From main fabric:
- 1. Separate Front Side – 2 pieces
- 2. Center Front Half – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front Panel – 2 pieces
- 4. Button Catch (fly shield) – 1 piece
- 5. Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- 6. Flap – 4 pieces
- 7. Center Back Half – 2 pieces
- 8. Side Back Half – 2 pieces
- 9. Waistband – 1 piece
- 10. Belt Loop – 8 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband, Button Catch, Flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Waistband, Flap and Button Catch (fly shield).
- Place the Pocket Bag on the Center Front Half, right sides together, and stitch along the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side. Topstitch along the pocket opening 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the Center Front Half on the Separate Front Side, matching the marking that shows the pocket opening. Join the Separate Front Side to the Center Front Half along the upper and side edges with a line of stitching 1 cm from the edge. Stitch the pocket bag around its edge and overlock.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center back.
- Stitch the Side Front Panel to the front along the curved seam and overlock the seam. Press the seam towards the center front and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Side Back Half to the Center Back Half along the curved seam and overlock the seam. Press the seam towards the Center Back Half and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the flaps right side out. Topstitch around the outer edge of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge and overlock the upper edge of each flap.
- Overlock the side edges of the trousers. Stitch the side seams and press them open.
- Overlock the outer edge of the Patch Pocket and press the allowances to the wrong side following the pattern. Turn the upper edge onto the pocket and topstitch it, mark the pocket position and stitch the pocket on around the edge, 0.2 cm from the edge. Place the flap on its marking and stitch it on. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the inseam, center front, center back and lower edges of the trousers. Stitch the inseams and press them open. Stitch the center back and center front seams up to the zip notch. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the first line of stitching.
- Press the cut-on fly facings to the wrong side. Stitch the zip under the folded edge of the left fly allowance, close to the edge. Stitch the free zip tape to the cut-on facing of the right half. Overlock the long edges of the Button Catch. Fold the Button Catch in half lengthwise and stitch across the short lower end. Stitch the cut-on fly facing of the left half onto the Button Catch. Topstitch the right edge of the fly opening, catching the facing.
- Place the Belt Loop pieces right sides together and stitch around, leaving the upper edge open. Turn the belt loops right side out and press, easing out the seams.
- Press the Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and overlock the lower edge of the inner half.
- Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers. Stitch across the waistband ends, trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the ends right side out. Cut the elastic and stitch it onto the waistband vertically. Stitch the overlocked lower edge of the inner waistband in the ditch of the waistband seam and press the finished waistband. Stitch the belt loops to the upper edge of the waistband. Secure the lower ends of the belt loops to the trousers.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Work a buttonhole on the right end of the waistband and sew a button on the left end.
