Fabric & Materials
From main fabric: 1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY 2. Side pocket - 2 QTY 3. Side flap – 4 QTY 4. Side pocket part – 2 QTY 5. Back pocket FACING – 2 QTY 6. Large back pocket bag – 1 QTY 7. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY 8. Small pocket bag – 2 QTY 9. Large pocket bag – 2 QTY 10. Fly shield – 1 QTY 11. CUFF – 2 QTY 12. Waistband – 1 QTY From LINING fabric: 1. Small back pocket bag – 1 QTY FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: waistband, flap, fly shield.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to waistband, flap, fly shield.
- Mark the location of the back pocket on the back pant half. Reinforce the pocket opening with GRAIN LINE tape. Clarify the back pocket placement. Fold the pocket FACINGS in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark a guide line on the pocket FACINGS parallel to the FACING fold for attaching it. Mark guide lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the pocket FACINGS. Stitch the FACINGS to the back half. Finish the ends of the stitches at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the FACINGS through the resulting opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, and adjust the ends of the FACINGS. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket LINING to the FACING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch and serge the pocket LINING.
- Mark the location of the side welt pocket on the FRONT PANEL. Reinforce the pocket opening with GRAIN LINE tape. Clarify the pocket placement and the pocket opening line. Cut open the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the pocket SEAM ALLOWANCES through the resulting opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Adjust the end of the pocket from the wrong side. Place the ZIPPER under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch in the ZIPPER and stitch the pocket LINING to the ZIPPER SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch and serge the pocket LINING.
- Serge the side edges of the back and FRONT PANEL. Stitch and press open the side seams.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Turn the flap through the upper open edge. Straighten the seams and topstitch at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the flap. Mark the location of the flap on the pants. Serge the upper edge of the flap, stitch to the pants, turn back and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Mark the location of the side patch pocket on the pants. Serge the side edge of the side pocket part. Stitch the side pocket part to the side and bottom edges of the pocket and serge. Serge the upper edge of the pocket, turn under and topstitch. Place the pocket on the marking, fold under the FACING edge and topstitch.
- Serge the edges: inseam, front center seam and fly edge, back center seam.
- Stitch and press open the inseams.
- Stitch the front seam and center seam up to the NOTCH for the ZIPPER. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the stitching line of the front and center seam.
- Press the one-piece ZIPPER FACINGS to the wrong side. Stitch the ZIPPER under the edge of the ZIPPER SEAM ALLOWANCE (left side) to the edge. Stitch the free ZIPPER tape to the right half to the one-piece FACING. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise and stitch the short bottom edge. Serge the long edge of the fly shield. Topstitch the one-piece ZIPPER FACING to the fly shield on the left pant half. Topstitch the right edge of the opening, catching the FACING.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, align the edges and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold or forming a piping on the inside 0.1-0.2 cm wide, and press.
- Serge the bottom edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides in, and press.
- Cut the belt loops to size, mark the location of the belt loops on the waistband and stitch to the bottom edge of the upper waistband. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge and stitch the waistband corners. Trim the corners and turn out the waistband. Topstitch the serged edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch the free ends of the belt loops to the upper edge of the waistband.
- Fold the CUFF wrong side in lengthwise in half and press. Stitch the side edges of the CUFF flat and press open. Press the bottom of the CUFF. Stitch the CUFFS to the bottom edge of the pants. Serge and press the seam.
- On the right side of the waistband, make a buttonhole, and on the left, sew on a button. Mark and make buttonholes on the side patch pocket flap. Mark and sew on buttons on the side patch pocket.
