Empire-Seam Double-Breasted Spring Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
2. BACK YOKE – 1 QTY
3. BACK CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
4. BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
5. LOWER COLLAR – 1 QTY
6. UPPER COLLAR – 1 QTY
7. FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
8. FRONT YOKE – 2 QTY
9. FRONT CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
10. FRONT FACING – 2 QTY
11. UPPER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
12. LOWER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
13. SLEEVE INSERT – 2 QTY
14. CUFF – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK YOKE – 1 QTY
2. BACK CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
3. BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
4. FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
5. FRONT CENTER PANEL – 2 QTY
6. UPPER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
7. LOWER SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FRONT FACING, FRONT CENTER PANEL, LOWER COLLAR, FRONT YOKE, BACK NECK FACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FRONT FACING, FRONT CENTER PANEL, LOWER COLLAR, FRONT YOKE, and BACK NECK FACING.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners. Press the COLLAR.
3. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Mark and stitch the darts on the FRONT YOKE. Press the darts towards the center of the FRONT YOKE. Attach the YOKE to the FRONT PANEL and press open the seam. Attach the YOKE to the BACK PANEL and press open the seam.
4. Place the FRONT FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the marked line. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which indicates the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the fastener area – to the FRONT FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Remove pins. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams, and press.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
6. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FRONT FACING and BACK NECK FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
7. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Attach the SLEEVE INSERT to the SLEEVE. Press open the attachment seam. Attach the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Press open the attachment seam. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press up the SLEEVE hem. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES.
8. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press up the LINING allowances. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FRONT FACING and neckline FACING.
9. Mark and press up the jacket hem. Finish the SLEEVE and jacket hem with the LINING. Secure the LINING to the garment at the waist seams. Turn the jacket to the right side through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
10. Mark and make buttonholes on the FRONT PANELS. Sew on buttons. Mark and sew on a hidden button.