Zip-Front Denim Jacket with Decorative Topstitching

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Back Yoke – 1 QTY
4. Back Waistband – 2 QTY
5. Front Yoke – 2 QTY
6. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
7. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
8. Front Waistband – 2 QTY
9. Lower Waistband – 2 QTY
10. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
11. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
12. Patch Pocket – 2 QTY
13. FACING – 2 QTY
14. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
15. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
16. SLEEVE CUFF – 4 QTY
17. Welt – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Pocket LINING – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, COLLAR, Welt, CUFF, back waistband and lower waistband.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, stand, CUFF, back waistband, and lower waistband.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim and turn the COLLAR corners. Press the COLLAR.
3. Stitch the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL princess seams. Serge the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL princess seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL princess seams.
4. Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right side up, and press. Mark the welt placement on the pocket. On the welt, mark the attachment line to the pocket, measuring the width. Place the welt on the pocket and stitch, aligning the marked lines. Place the pocket LINING on the right side of the pocket to the marked upper line and stitch. Check the accuracy of the welt and LINING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel and the distance between them equal to the finished welt width). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Through the opening, turn the welt and pocket LINING to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Serge the welt attachment seam. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch 0.2 cm along the upper edge of the welt and side edges. Serge the outer contour of the patch pocket together with the pocket LINING. Press the pocket sides according to the pattern. Mark the pocket placement on the FRONT PANEL and topstitch.
5. Attach the yoke to the FRONT PANEL and serge the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
6. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the seam and press towards the right BACK PANEL. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the back yoke to the BACK PANEL and serge the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
7. Attach the waistband to the FRONT PANEL and press the attachment seam towards the waistband. Attach the waistband to the BACK PANEL and press the attachment seam towards the waistband.
8. Stitch and press open the side seams of the lower FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL waistbands. Serge the upper edge of the waistband.
9. Place the FRONT PANELs right sides together and align the edges, matching the yokes, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the ZIPPER to the edge of the front opening. Fold and press the edges of the front opening in the ZIPPER area.
10. Serge the outer edge of the FACING. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the front opening line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams, and press.
11. Stitch and serge the shoulder seams. Press the shoulder seams towards the BACK PANEL.
12. Serge the elbow edge of the SLEEVE. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE up to the NOTCH for the slit. Press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and topstitch the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES 0.5 cm onto the SLEEVE. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the elbow seam.
13. Set the SLEEVES into the open armhole according to the NOTCHES. Stitch the side seam of the jacket and the lower edge of the SLEEVE in one continuous seam, serge, and press towards the BACK PANEL.
14. Set the lower COLLAR into the neckline, fold under the open edge of the lower COLLAR, and topstitch into the seam of the upper stand attachment. Topstitch along the COLLAR. Secure the FACINGs at the shoulder seams with a 1 cm tack.
15. Attach the center seam of the lower waistband to the outer edge of the FACING at the bottom. Press the attachment seam and turn to the right side. Stitch the lower corner of the front opening and the bottom of the garment with the waistband. Turn out and trim the lower corners of the front openings. Press the waistband, straightening the piping from the upper waistband, and topstitch the upper serged edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch along the front opening line 0.5 cm from the edge of the front opening.
16. Place the CUFFs right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the upper edge free.
17. Attach the upper CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Fold under the upper edge of the lower CUFF by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper CUFF. Topstitch along the CUFF contour.
18. Mark and serge the buttonholes on the CUFF.