Zip Detail Trench Coat with Storm Flaps
A knee-length women's coat in raincoat fabric with a notched collar, front storm flaps, a horizontal waist seam crossed by princess seams, zippered welt pockets and a tie belt. Fully lined, with a back vent and vented two-piece sleeves.
When To Wear
- As a rain and wind layer in spring and autumn.
- Over suits, dresses and knitwear for commuting and town wear, tied at the waist with the belt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped by princess seams on the front and back, and a horizontal waist seam; worn with a tie belt.
Length: About knee length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; upper and lower collar, the lower collar interfaced.
Closure: Snaps along the front edge.
Front: Double-layer storm flaps (yokes) topstitched onto the fronts and fastened with snaps; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Lower double-welt pockets with zippers set under the welts so the teeth show; upper false pockets on the chest made the same way, with a main-fabric underlay behind the zipper.
Back: Centre back seam with a vent, princess seams and a waist seam.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a vent in the elbow seam fastened with snaps; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Finishing: Tie belt topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; coat hem sewn by hand.
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves, joined around the back vent; the lining is 1 cm shorter than the coat.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Four welt openings with zippers, a notched collar set between coat and facing, double-layer storm flaps, a lined back vent and sleeve vents, and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre front panels, vent area, lower collar) and stay tape for the pocket openings
- 11 snaps
- 4 zippers
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Central upper back – 2 pieces
- Side upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Central upper front – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 4 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Central lower back – 2 pieces
- Side lower back – 2 pieces
- Side lower front – 2 pieces
- Central lower front – 2 pieces
- Large pocket lining – 2 pieces
- Small pocket lining – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Central back – 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Central front – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facing, central upper front, central lower front, vent section, lower collar, grain line stay.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, central upper front, central lower front, vent section, and lower collar.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners. Press the collar.
- Stitch the central upper front to the central lower front. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the side upper front to the side lower front. Press seam allowances open.
- Serge the panel seam allowances from bottom to waist. Stitch and press open the front reliefs.
- Mark the position of the lower pocket on the front. Reinforce the pocket opening with a grain line stay. Confirm the position of the lower pocket on the front. Cut the pocket facings. Fold the pocket facings in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facings parallel to the facing fold for stitching. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for stitching the pocket facings. Stitch the facings to the front. End the stitching at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the accuracy of the facing stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, and adjust the ends of the facings. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper and stitch the pocket lining to the facing seam allowances. Stitch the pocket lining and serge.
- Cut the pocket underlay from the main fabric. Mark the position of the upper false pocket on the front. Reinforce the pocket opening with a grain line stay. The processing of the upper pocket is similar to the processing of the lower pocket. After stitching the zipper, stitch the underlay to the facing seam allowances.
- Serge the inner edge of the facing. Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is performed from the front side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar attachment. Mark and press the hem allowance to the wrong side of the coat. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seam allowances. Understitch the front edge seam allowance: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the front front edge. Press the front edges and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Remove temporary basting threads.
- Place the yoke pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the shoulder, side, and armhole edges free. Turn the yoke to the right side and press. Baste the yoke to the front. Topstitch the yoke to the front.
- Stitch the side upper back to the side lower back and the central upper back to the central lower back. Press the stitching seam allowances open.
- Serge the panel seam allowances from bottom to waist. Stitch and press open the back reliefs.
- Serge the vent seam allowances. Stitch the center back seam allowance up to the vent. Press the lower vent seam allowance by 1 cm. Press the center back seam and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent allowance.
- Serge the side seam allowances from bottom to waist. Stitch the shoulder and side seam allowances of the coat. Press the shoulder and side seam allowances open. Remove temporary basting threads connecting the yoke to the front.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the lower and upper sleeve. Press the elbow seam of the sleeve, make a notch, and press the vent.
- Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press the bottom of the sleeve.
- Stitch the lower collar into the neckline of the coat.
- Stitch the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Stitch
