Classic Tailored One Button Blazer
A women's fitted, hip-length lined jacket with a notched collar, a single-button front, two-piece set-in sleeves, double-welt pockets with flaps and a welt breast pocket.
When To Wear
- At the office with trousers or a skirt in the same wool for a suit.
- In autumn and spring over shirts, fine knitwear and jeans.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by front darts, side panels between front and back, back darts and a centre back seam.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the under collar is set into the jacket neckline, the upper collar into the facing.
Closure: Single-breasted, one button with a buttonhole on the right front.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with flaps at the hip, cut into the front dart; a welt breast pocket on the left front.
Back: Centre back seam and darts.
Finishing: Front edges understitched 0.2 cm from the seam: to the facing along the closure and to the front along the lapels. Fronts, facings, back neck facing, hems, flaps and welt interfaced.
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Double-welt flap pockets, a welt breast pocket, a two-piece collar with lapels, set-in two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, a fully bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neck facing, flaps, welt, sleeve and jacket hems)
- Fusible stay tape for the pocket openings
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Side – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Flap, Off-Set Welt, Front, Back Neckline Facing, sleeve and jacket hem allowances; fusible stay tape for the pocket openings.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Flap, Off-Set Welt, Front, sleeve hem, jacket hem and Back Neckline Facing.
- Mark the darts on the Front and Back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the centre. Stitch the front darts, cut away the dart depth and cut the pocket opening.
- Fold the Off-Set Welt in half right sides together and press. Stitch the ends of the welt, trim the excess fabric at the corners and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt. Mark the position of the breast pocket. Stitch the welt to the Front, turn it up and topstitch the side edges of the welt.
- Place the Flap pieces together in pairs, right sides together, and stitch. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the flaps right side out. Place the Upper Collar on the Lower Collar and stitch them together. Ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Cut the welt strips for the hip pockets. Reinforce the pocket opening with fusible stay tape or baste it. Fold the welt strips in half wrong sides together and press. On each welt strip, mark a guideline parallel to the fold for attaching it. On the flap, mark a guideline parallel to its upper edge for attaching it, checking the flap width along its whole length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and the welt strips. Stitch the welt strips to the Front, ending the stitching exactly at the cross marks of the pocket. Check from the wrong side that the two stitching lines are parallel. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welt strips through the opening to the wrong side, ease out the edges and adjust the ends so that the pressed folds of the welts meet edge to edge. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the Pocket Lining to the flap. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch it to the upper welt. Stitch the lower Pocket Lining into the seam of the lower welt, then trim and stitch the Pocket Lining pieces together.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, working from the Front side up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: along the closure onto the Center Front Facing, along the lapels onto the Front. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Stitch the seams joining the Side to the Front and Back and press them open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing and press them open. Sew the Lower Collar into the jacket neckline, and the Upper Collar into the neckline edge of the joined facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and press it open. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front and sew a button on the left front.
