Zippered Mini Dress
A women's fitted denim dress of above-knee length with a centre front zip, a shirt-style collar, short set-in sleeves and a separate wide belt with eyelets and a buckle, worn low on the hips through belt loops.
When To Wear
- In spring, summer and early autumn, with sneakers, sandals or ankle boots.
- For daytime and weekend wear; over a fine knit top in cooler weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped with bust and waist darts on the front and back; straight skirt.
Length: Above the knee.
Collar: Shirt-style collar without a stand, made from an interfaced under collar and an upper collar; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar topstitched over the seam.
Sleeves: Short, one-piece set-in sleeves.
Closure: Zip in the centre front seam, stitched 0.5 cm from the edge; the seam is closed below the zip notch.
Back: Centre back seam and waist darts.
Waist: Separate belt made of a two-piece back belt and left and right front belt parts, interfaced, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, with eyelets and a buckle. Belt loops on the dress hold it at hip level.
Finishing: Shoulder, side and sleeve seams overlocked and pressed towards the back; 3 cm hems on the dress and sleeves, blind-stitched by hand.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Bust and waist darts, a centre front zip, a collar set into the neckline, belt loops and a lined belt with eyelets and a buckle.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (under collar, belt pieces)
- Zip
- Buckle
- Eyelets
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Belt – 4 pieces
- Left Waistband – 2 pieces
- Right Waistband – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar (under collar) – 1 piece
- Right Waistband – 1 piece
- Left Waistband – 1 piece
- Back Belt – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the under collar, one Right Waistband, one Left Waistband and two Back Belt pieces.
- Place the upper and under Collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim, turn out the collar corners.
- Stitch the waist and bust darts on the front and back. Press the bust darts downwards. Press the waist darts on the back towards the center back, and the waist darts on the front towards the center front.
- Overlock the center front edges and stitch the center front seam up to the zipper notch; press the seam open, pressing the zipper opening allowances. Attach the zipper 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the center back seam, overlock the seam and press it towards the right back.
- Fold the belt loop strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges, and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold, or roll it 0.1–0.2 cm to the inside, and press. Mark the placement for attaching the belt loops and topstitch them.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Overlock the shoulder and side seams. Press the seams towards the back.
- Stitch the under collar into the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the upper collar and topstitch into the seam of the lower collar attachment.
- Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve and the hem of the dress. Stitch the sleeve seam and overlock. Press the seam towards the back.
- Set the sleeve into the armhole according to the notches. Overlock the setting seam.
- Fold and press the hem of the sleeves and the hem of the dress. Hand stitch the hem of the dress and sleeves with a blind stitch.
- Stitch the center seam of the Back Belt pieces. Stitch the Back Belt to the Left Waistband and to the Right Waistband at the sides. Press the center and side seams open.
- Place the belt right sides together and stitch on three sides, leaving the center end of the Right Waistband open. Turn out and press the belt. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge. Mark and punch eyelets on the belt. Thread the buckle through the belt and sew it on.
