Asymmetric Zip-Front Moto Jacket
A women's fitted, hip-length denim biker jacket with an off-centre separating zip, a collar with wide lapels, two zipped welt pockets in the front darts and a full cotton lining.
When To Wear
- As a light jacket in spring and autumn over T-shirts, shirts and fine knits.
- With jeans, trousers or dresses for casual wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped with front darts and back darts pressed towards the centre back.
Length: Hip length; 3 cm hem allowance on the jacket and sleeves.
Closure: Asymmetric separating zip set between the left front and an interfaced cut-off facing strip, topstitched 0.2 cm from the zip seam.
Collar: Two-piece collar with an interfaced undercollar, set between the jacket and the lining; the fronts turn back into wide lapels.
Pockets: Two angled zip pockets, the opening cut in the lower part of the front dart, reinforced with stay tape and edge-stitched 0.2 cm over a visible zip, with cotton pocket bags.
Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, armhole seams double-topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Shoulder and side seams pressed towards the back and double-topstitched 0.2 cm; double topstitching along the front edges, collar and lapels; hem and sleeve hems stitched 2 cm from the edge through the lining.
Lining: Full cotton lining with a turning opening in the right sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. An asymmetric separating zip with cut-off facings, zip pockets cut into the darts, a collar set between jacket and lining, and bagging out a full lining through the sleeve.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Cotton lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (cut-off facings, undercollar)
- Separating zip
- 2 zips for the pockets
- Stay tape for the pocket openings
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Right front – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Cut-off facing – 3 pieces
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: cut-off facing, lower collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse with fusible interfacing: cut-off facing and lower collar.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center of the back.
- Stitch the lower of the dart on the front. Trim excess fabric. Fuse the pocket opening with a grain line strip and clarify the pocket placement. Cut the pocket opening, make diagonal cuts 1-1.5cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side through the opening, press the pocket opening. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Topstitch the pocket opening close to the edge at a distance of 0.2 cm. Attach the small and large pocket bags to the seam allowances. Stitch and overlock the pocket bag.
- Attach the zipper to the left front. Attach the cut-off facing to the left front and sew a topstitch at a distance of 0.2 cm from the zipper attachment seam. Attach the zipper to the right front.
- Place the cut-off facing on the right sides of the right and left front panels, right side down, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the front side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar insertion. Attach the lower edges of the cut-off facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the facing. Turn the facings to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press the seams towards the back and sew a double topstitch at 0.2 cm from the stitching seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seams and press the seams.
- Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches and sew a double topstitch at a distance of 0.2 cm from the sleeve insertion seam.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the seam of the right sleeve, press the seams.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the cut-off facing. Insert the collar between the jacket and the lining. Set the collar into the jacket neckline. Sew a double topstitch at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge along the entire length of the facings of the right and left front panels, along the collar edge and lapels.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve and the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the right sleeve. Stitch the opening in the right sleeve seam. Sew a stitch along the bottom line of the sleeve and the bottom of the garment at a distance of 2cm from the hem edge.
