Denim Pants with Curved Panels
Women's full-length wide-leg trousers in stretch denim, with curved panel seams on the front and back, patch pockets with an inverted pleat and buttoned flaps, a fly zip and a waistband with belt loops.
When To Wear
- All year round with shirts, knit tops and jackets.
- With flat shoes or boots for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist and hips, with wide straight legs.
Length: Full length; 2 cm hem allowance, turned and topstitched.
Legs: Front and back each cut in a centre and a side panel; the curved panel seam runs from the waist towards the centre and down the leg, topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. Seat seam double-stitched.
Pockets: Two patch pockets with an inverted pleat, topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge, under interfaced flaps topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and closed with a button.
Closure: Front fly zip with cut-on facings and a separate fly shield.
Waist: Straight interfaced waistband folded in half, with belt loops and one button.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A fly zip with a fly shield, curved panel seams with topstitching, pleated patch pockets with flaps and a waistband with belt loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Stretch denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (waistband, flaps)
- 3 buttons
- Trouser zip
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Side of front – 2 pieces
- 2. Center of front – 2 pieces
- 3. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
- 4. Flap – 4 pieces
- 5. Center of back – 2 pieces
- 6. Side of back – 2 pieces
- 7. Belt loop – 1 piece
- 8. Waistband – 1 piece
- 9. Fly facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: waistband, flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the waistband and flap.
- Stitch and serge the princess seam on the front pant half, press the seam towards the center front half and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and serge the princess seam on the back pant half, press the seam towards the center back and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seam allowances at the corners of the flaps and turn out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge and serge the upper edge of the flap.
- Stitch and serge the side seam of the pants. Press the side seam towards the back pant half.
- Serge: the front and center edges of the pant halves and the bottom edge of the pants. Stitch and serge the inseams. Press the inseams towards the back pant half. Stitch the front edge and center edge up to the notch for the zipper. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the stitching line of the front and center seam.
- Fold and press the inverted pleat on the patch pocket. Secure the pleat with a stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the upper and lower edges of the pocket. Serge the outer contour of the pocket and press it according to the pattern. Topstitch the upper edge to the pocket, mark the pocket placement and topstitch it along the contour at a distance of 0.2 cm from the pocket edge. Place the flap to the marking and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Press the one-piece zipper facings to the wrong side. Stitch the zipper under the edge of the zipper allowance (left side) to the edge. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the right half to the one-piece facing. Serge the side edges of the fly facing. Fold the fly facing in half lengthwise and stitch around the short bottom edge. Topstitch the one-piece zipper facing to the fly facing on the left pant half. Topstitch the right edge of the opening, catching the facing.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges, and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold, or form a 0.1 – 0.2 cm wide edge on the inside and press.
- Press the waistband lengthwise in half, wrong sides together, and serge the lower inner edge of the waistband. Cut the belt loops to size and topstitch the belt loops according to the markings to the upper edge of the waistband.
- Stitch the waistband with belt loops to the upper edge of the pants. Stitch the ends of the waistband, trim seam allowances at the corners and turn out. Topstitch the lower serged edge of the waistband into the attaching seam and press the waistband in its finished form.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Serge a buttonhole on the right side of the waistband, and sew a button on the left side. Mark and serge buttonholes on the flap, and sew buttons on the patch pocket according to the markings.