Elbow Sleeve Zip-Front Shirt with Patch Pockets
A women's hip-length denim shirt with a separating zip front, a turn-down collar, front yokes with two patch pockets, and elbow-length sleeves with turn-ups held by a buttoned tab.
When To Wear
- In late spring and summer with jeans, chinos or a skirt.
- Open over a T-shirt or top as a light shirt-jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped with bust darts at the front and waist darts at the back.
Length: Hip length with a straight hem; 3 cm hem allowance, topstitched.
Collar: Turn-down shirt collar cut as upper and lower collar, with the upper collar interfaced and the collar topstitched.
Closure: Centre front separating zip set between the fronts and interfaced front facings, topstitched along the zip seam; the facings are bar-tacked to the shoulder seams.
Front: Front yokes, with the yoke seam pressed up and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Two patch pockets below the yokes, the top edge finished with an interfaced facing turned to the right side and topstitched; pockets attached 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves eased at the cap, ending at the elbow with a double-folded turn-up and a tab buttoned over it.
Back: One piece with two vertical waist darts pressed towards the centre back.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A separating zip with facings, a two-piece collar, faced patch pockets and folded sleeve turn-ups with tabs.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim with stretch fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, upper collar, sleeve turn-ups, pocket facings)
- Separating zip
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Pocket Facing – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, upper Collar, sleeve turn-up, Pocket Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, the upper Collar, the sleeve turn-ups and the Pocket Facings.
- Stitch the bust darts on the Fronts and the waist darts on the Back. Press the bust darts downwards and the back waist darts towards the centre back.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the Front and serge the seam, press it towards the yoke and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the separating zip to the Fronts.
- Mark the pocket position on the Front. Stitch the Pocket Facing to the upper edge of the Pocket. Turn the facing to the right side and press the upper edge. Press under 1 cm along the lower edge of the Pocket Facing and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Serge the outer edge of the Pocket, leaving the opening free. Press the serged allowances to the wrong side following the pattern. Place the Pocket on the marked position and topstitch around the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Serge the inner edge of each Center Front Facing. Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Fronts along the front edge.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side and fold them under. Baste the front edge, press and topstitch.
- Topstitch along the zip seam.
- Stitch and serge the shoulder seams. Press them towards the Back.
- Stitch and serge the side seams. Press them towards the Back.
- Place the upper and under Collar right sides together, stitch around the outer edges and turn the collar right side out.
- Stitch the under Collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the upper Collar and topstitch it over the neckline seam. Topstitch around the collar. Secure the Center Front Facings to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Fold each Strap lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the upper corner and the side edge, leaving the lower edge open for turning. Turn the Strap right side out and press.
- Mark the Strap position at the lower edge of the Sleeve and stitch it on 0.5 cm from the edge of the allowance. Serge the lower edge of the Sleeve. Mark the turn-up on the Sleeve and press the upper fold of the turn-up. Fold the turn-up again, checking that its width is even all the way round, and press a second time. Topstitch the hem allowance to the Sleeve.
- Stitch and serge the sleeve seam. Press it towards the back.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap.
- Serge the lower edge of the shirt, turn it up and topstitch.
- Make the buttonholes on the Straps and sew on the buttons.
