Mixed Media Denim Style Jacket
A hip-length women's hooded jacket that combines two fabrics: a denim front with princess seams, yokes and buttoned flaps, and a knit back, sleeves and hood. Button front with a drawstring hood.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn, over T-shirts and sweatshirts.
- With jeans, joggers or a denim skirt for everyday casual wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, semi-fitted body shaped by the front princess seams; hip length.
Front: Each front is cut in three vertical panels (centre, middle and side), with the princess seams pressed towards the middle panel and topstitched with a double row 0.2 cm from the seam. A denim front yoke is topstitched with a double row 0.2 cm from the edge.
Closure: Centre front button closure with buttonholes on the right front; the front edges are finished with interfaced facings and double topstitching 0.2 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Two pointed chest flaps set into the lower edge of the front yokes, each topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and held with a button.
Back: Knit back with a denim back yoke topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Hood: Three-piece knit hood with a centre panel, a drawstring threaded through buttonholes at the front edge, and the neckline finished with the front facings and a back neck facing.
Sleeves: Long set-in knit sleeves with folded double-layer cuffs.
Finishing: Serged seams; 3 cm hem allowance.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Joining denim to knit, multi-panel princess seams with double topstitching, faced front edges and a hood set between the jacket and the facings.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim for the front, yokes, facings and flaps; knit fabric for the back, sleeves, hood and cuffs.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
- 7 buttons
- Cord for the hood drawstring
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Back Facing – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
From knit fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing and Back Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Back Facing.
- Stitch and serge the princess seam joining the Side Front and the Middle Front. Press it towards the Middle Front. Stitch and serge the princess seam joining the Center Front and the Middle Front. Press it towards the Middle Front. Topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the princess seams.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the Back. Serge the seam. Topstitch the Back Yoke 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the flaps right side out. Topstitch around the outer edge of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the flap on the Front Yoke and stitch it to the lower edge of the yoke between the vertical marks. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Serge the seam. Topstitch a double row on the Front Yoke 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Serge the outer edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Facing. Place each Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, working from the front side. Turn the front edges right side out and press the seams to the edge. Topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the edge. Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Back Facing at the shoulder edges.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Serge the side and shoulder seams. Press the shoulder and side seams towards the back.
- Stitch and serge the Hood pieces to the Center Hood. Serge the front edge of the hood. Mark and make the buttonholes for the cord. Turn the front edge of the hood to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the hood into the neckline. Face the neckline with the Center Front Facings and the Back Facing. Secure the outer edge of each Center Front Facing to the shoulder seam with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Stitch the short ends of each Cuff. Stitch and serge the sleeve seams. Fold the Cuff in half and stitch it to the lower edge of the Sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Make the buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front. Thread the cord through the buttonholes of the hood.
