Collared Tie Front Long Jacket
A knee-length women's jacket in silk with princess seams from the armholes, a notched collar with lapels and a front fastened by two pairs of ties knotted into bows. Two-piece sleeves with turned-up cuffs, full lining.
When To Wear
- In late spring and summer over dresses or with slim trousers.
- As a light jacket for daytime events and evenings out.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting through the bust and waist, widening gradually towards the hem.
Length: Knee length, 3 cm hem allowance.
Collar: Notched collar with pointed lapels; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar is attached to the front facings and back neck facing.
Closure: Two pairs of ties stitched into the front edge seams at the waist, knotted into bows; the front hangs open below them. Front edge seams understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Front: Centre and side front panels joined by princess seams running from the armholes, seams pressed open.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams from the armholes.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls, finished with a folded cuff turned up at the wrist.
Lining: Full lining attached to the facings, cuffs and hem, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, ties caught into the front edge seam, cuffed two-piece sleeves and a bagged lining in silk.
Fabric Recommendations
Silk fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, cuffs, under collar)
- Shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Tie – 8 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neck facing, cuff, lower collar
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, back neck facing, and cuff.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out collar corners.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front and back.
- Place the tie pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, leaving the bottom edge of the tie unstitched. Turn the tie right side out, smooth the seams, and press. Place the tie on the right side of the center front. Align the bottom edges of the tie with the seam allowance for the front opening and secure the tie with a backstitch.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front opening line. Stitch from the front side upwards to the notch that marks the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the bottom edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front opening corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front opening: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front openings right side out, smooth the seams.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing.
- Insert the lower collar into the jacket neckline, and attach the upper collar to the front facing with the facing.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Fold the cuff in half and press. Attach the upper edge of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and the side edge of the cuff with a single seam.
- Insert the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings, as well as to the back neck facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams. Attach the sleeve lining to the lower edge of the cuff and the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening left in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
