Faux Leather Zip Jacket
A hip-length women's jacket in faux leather or suede with front and back yokes, vertical panel seams below them, a separating zip front and a pointed turn-down collar. Two-piece sleeves and full lining.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over T-shirts, shirts and fine knits.
- With jeans, straight trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by vertical panel seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Turn-down collar with pointed ends; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar is attached to the facing.
Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, set between the front edge and the facing; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Front: Straight front yoke across the chest; centre and side front panels below it.
Back: Straight back yoke; centre and side back panels joined by vertical seams.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads; the hem is pressed up and finished by the lining.
Finishing: Panel seams and yoke seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Matching yokes and panel seams across a zip front, even topstitching on faux leather, a collar set between the jacket and the facing and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux garment leather or suede.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, under collar, hem allowances)
- Separating zip
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Lower Collar – 1 piece
- 2. Upper Collar – 1 piece
- 3. Center Back – 1 piece
- 4. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 6. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 7. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 9. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 11. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 1 piece
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Lower Collar; hem allowances of Center Back, Side Back, Lower Sleeve, Side Front and Upper Sleeve.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing and Lower Collar, and to the hem allowances of the Center Back, Side Front, Side Back, Lower Sleeve and Upper Sleeve.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Clip the corners and turn the collar right side out.
- Stitch the panel seams of the front (Center Front to Side Front) and back (Center Back to Side Back). Topstitch 0.5 cm from the panel seams.
- Stitch the Front Yoke and Back Yoke to the front and back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke seams.
- Place the fronts right sides together, align the edges and match the yokes, then check that the front edges are the same length. Stitch the separating zip to the front edges. Fold the front edges under along the zip section and press through a pressing cloth.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the neckline and the Upper Collar to the Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Upper Collar. Tack the seam allowances of the collar seams together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hems of the sleeves and jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining and stitch the opening closed.
