Fitted Jacket Fur Collar Cuffs Zippered Pockets
A hip-length fitted women's jacket in faux leather with armhole princess seams front and back, a separating zip front and patch pockets with zipped openings. Collar and cuffs are trimmed with fur, and the jacket is fully lined.
When To Wear
- In cool autumn and early spring weather over sweaters and shirts.
- With jeans or straight trousers for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Turn-down collar with pointed ends, with a fur collar piece showing along its edge; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar is attached to the facing.
Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, front edges topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the lower front with a slanted zipped opening cut into the pocket, topstitched on with a double row 0.2 cm from the edge.
Back: Centre back panel and two side back panels joined by princess seams.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, finished with deep two-layer cuffs trimmed with fur.
Finishing: Princess seams with double topstitching 0.2 cm from the seam; topstitched hem.
Lining: Full lining attached to the facings, collar, cuffs and hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Zips set into slashed pocket openings, a separating front zip with facings, a fur-trimmed collar and cuffs and a bagged lining in faux leather.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux leather. Fur fabric for the collar and cuff trim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fur fabric for the collar and cuffs
- Fusible interfacing (under collar, cuffs, facings, hem allowances)
- Separating zip for the front
- 2 zips for the pockets
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
From fur:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: under collar, Cuff, Center Front Facing; hem allowances of Center Back, Side Back, Center Front and Side Front.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the under collar, Center Front Facing and Cuff, and to the hem allowances of the Center Back, Side Back, Sleeve, Center Front and Side Front.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front (Center Front to Side Front) and back (Center Back to Side Back). Topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the princess seams.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Turn the collar right side out, rolling a narrow edge of the upper collar to the underside.
- Cut the zip opening in the Pocket Bag, making diagonal clips 1–1.5 cm from each end of the opening. Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side through the opening and press the opening through a pressing cloth. Place the zip under the edges of the opening so that the teeth show. Topstitch around the opening 0.2 cm from the edge. Mark the pocket position on the front. Press the pocket seam allowances to the wrong side around the outer edge through a pressing cloth and topstitch the pocket on at the markings with a double row 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Place the fronts right sides together, align the edges and match the pockets, then check that the front edges are the same length. Stitch the separating zip to the front edges. Fold the front edges under along the zip section and press through a pressing cloth.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the under collar into the neckline of the jacket. Stitch the upper collar to the Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the upper (outer) and under (inner) Cuff pieces each into a ring. Place the under cuff inside the upper cuff, right sides together, and stitch along the lower edge. Turn the cuff right side out and ease the seam into place.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Stitch the upper cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, then stitch the under cuff in place by stitching in the ditch of that seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the seam of the right sleeve. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the upper collar. Tack the seam allowances of the collar seams together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the under cuffs and to the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed. Topstitch along the jacket hem.
