CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Under collar – 1 piece
- 2. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 3. Cuff – 2 pieces
- 4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 5. Back waistband – 2 pieces
- 6. Front waistband – 4 pieces
- 7. Pocket – 2 pieces
- 8. Front pocket flap – 4 pieces
- 10. Front bodice – 2 pieces
- 11. Back bodice – 2 pieces
- 12. Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back bodice – 1 piece
- 2. Front bodice – 2 pieces
- 3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 4. Small upper pocket bag – 1 piece
- 5. Large upper pocket bag – 1 piece
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, under collar, back waistband, front waistband, cuff.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, under collar, cuff, back waistband, and front waistband.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch along the outer contour.
- Mark the pocket on the right front bodice. Place the facing right sides together with the pocket and pin along the drawn pocket opening line. From the wrong side, stitch along the marked pocket lines, forming a rectangle. Cut the facing and main piece along the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facing through the opening to the wrong side and straighten the edges, press the pocket opening. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Topstitch the pocket opening 0.2 cm from the edge. Attach the small and large upper pocket bags. Stitch the pocket bag.
- Fold the flaps with the under-flaps wrong sides together and stitch. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded corners of the flaps and turn out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Attach the pocket lining to the one-piece pocket facing and stitch the lining and pocket edges along the contour, leaving an opening of about 5 cm in the side seam for turning the pocket. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded corners of the pocket and turn out the pocket.
- Place the flap on the front bodice according to the markings and topstitch, then fold back and topstitch 0.5 cm from the topstitching seam. Place the pocket on the front bodice according to the markings and topstitch along the outer contour 0.5 cm from the edge. Secure the upper corners of the pockets with a double stitch.
- Stitch the center back seam.
- Attach the front waistband to the bottom edge of the front bodice. Place the front waistband pieces right sides together and stitch along the bottom edge.
- Attach the back waistband to the bottom edge of the back bodice. Place the back waistband pieces right sides together and stitch along the bottom edge.
- Attach the zipper to the edge of the front opening. Fold the edges of the front opening in the zipper area and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the bottom edge of the front facing to the upper edge of the front waistband. Place the front facing on the right side of the front bodice, right side down, and stitch along the front opening. Stitch from the front bodice side up to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front opening. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge of the front opening.
- Attach the under collar to the neckline and attach the upper collar to the front facings.
- Attach the cuff to the bottom edge of the sleeve. Stitch the sleeve and cuff edges.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and upper collar. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the bottom edge of the waistband and sleeve. Turn the jacket through the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch the waistband and cuff into the attachment seam. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
