Leather-Trimmed Coat
A women's knee-length coat in wool with faux leather trim, with a notched collar, a single-breasted three-button front and a horizontal waist seam. It has princess seams front and back, a back vent, two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents and a full lining.
When To Wear
- In autumn and early spring over dresses, skirts and trouser suits.
- For office and city wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist, flaring slightly below the waist seam.
Length: About knee length.
Collar: Notched collar with small lapels; the under collar is interfaced, and the facing seam is understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front.
Front: Centre front and side front panels, each cut in an upper and a lower part joined at the waist.
Pockets: Pockets in the waist seam of the side fronts, with a folded welt topstitched at both ends and lining pocket bags.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a vent at the hem, with buttons sewn on; shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
Back: Centre back and side back panels, also cut in upper and lower parts, with a centre back seam ending in a vent.
Finishing: Seams pressed open; hem turned up and hand-sewn.
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves, cut around the back vent, 1 cm shorter than the coat.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Tailored collar and lapels, waist-seam welt pockets, sleeve and back vents, a full lining finished around the vent.
Fabric Recommendations
Pure wool or wool-blend coating; faux leather for the trim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre fronts, upper back, vents, under collar, welts, hem allowances)
- 3 buttons for the front
- Small buttons for the sleeve vents
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Central upper back – 2 pieces
- 2. Central lower back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side upper back – 2 pieces
- 4. Side lower back – 2 pieces
- 5. Under collar – 1 piece
- 6. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 7. Side upper front – 2 pieces
- 8. Side lower front – 2 pieces
- 9. Central upper front – 2 pieces
- 10. Central lower front – 2 pieces
- 11. Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- 12. Facing – 2 pieces
- 13. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Central back – 1 piece
- 2. Side back - 2 pieces
- 3. Side front – 2 pieces
- 4. Central front – 2 pieces
- 5. Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facing, central upper front, central lower front, upper of central back with armhole section, vent section, armhole of side back, sleeve vent, under collar, welt pocket flap; hem seam allowances: side back, back, lower sleeve, side lower front, upper sleeve.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the facing, central upper front, central lower front, upper of central back with armhole section, vent section, armhole of side back, under collar; hem seam allowances: side back, back, side lower front, lower sleeve, upper sleeve with vent section.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch the under collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners.
- Fold the welt pocket flap in half with the wrong side in and press. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the upper edge of the side lower front (between the notches).
- On the right side of the side upper front and side lower front, place the pocket bag right side down along the notches and stitch it. Fold back the seam and topstitch onto the pocket bag. Topstitch the side edges of the welt pocket flap on both sides to the upper front. Stitch the pocket bag.
- Stitch the central upper front to the central lower front. Press the seams open.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is done from the front side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge facing: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Overlock the panel seams from the bottom to the waist. Stitch and press open the front reliefs.
- Stitch the side upper back to the side lower back and the central upper back to the central lower back. Press open the attachment seams.
- Stitch the back reliefs. Overlock the panel seams from the bottom to the waist and press open.
- Stitch the center back seam. Press the lower vent edge by 1 cm. Press the center back seam and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent seam allowance.
- Overlock the side seams from the bottom to the waist. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the lower and upper sleeve. Press open the sleeve elbow seam, make a notch and press the vent.
- Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Press the sleeve hem.
- Insert the under collar into the coat neckline.
- Insert the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves. Overlock the lining seams from the bottom to the waist and press. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper collar. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Fold under the lining sleeves and stitch to the hem of the coat sleeve, turn the excess lining fabric down and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth the lining, pin the side seams to the coat side seams and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. Before reaching 1 cm from the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm on both sides. Fold the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Insert a hand between the coat and the lining, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, fold the lining corner under and sew to the vent seam allowance. Fold the bottom of the coat lining and topstitch the hem so that the lining is 1 cm shorter than the coat.
- On the right front, make the buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on the buttons. Mark and sew.
