Insulated A-Line Skirt with Tie Waist and Flap Pocket
A women's ankle-length A-line skirt in raincoat fabric, lined and quilted to synthetic wadding throughout. Front and back hip yokes, a single box pocket with a flap, side vents held by hook-and-loop tape, and a padded waistband with ties.
When To Wear
- In late autumn and winter, with boots, tights and a warm jacket or parka.
- For walks and outdoor wear in cold, damp weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A-line, widening from the yoke to the hem.
Length: Ankle length.
Front: One panel cut on the fold, joined to a front hip yoke; the seam is pressed towards the yoke.
Pockets: One three-dimensional patch pocket below the front yoke, built from upper and lower parts with a gusset, lined and padded; the flap closes with hook-and-loop tape, and the pocket is held to the skirt with a snap.
Back: Two panels with a centre back seam and a two-piece back yoke; zipper in the centre back yoke.
Skirt: Vents low in both side seams; the front and back are bagged out with the lining separately, the vent overlap is topstitched onto the front and held with hook-and-loop tape.
Waist: Straight waistband with wadding, fastened with a button; two ties pass through buttonholes on the front and are anchored inside near the side seams.
Lining: Full lining with wadding stitched to it 0.5 cm from the edge; wadding is trimmed out of all seam allowances.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Three-layer construction (shell, wadding, lining), bagged-out side vents, a lined box pocket with a gusset, zipper in a yoke seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Dense, shiny raincoat fabrics or coated (impregnated) fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Matching lining fabric
- Synthetic wadding
- 1 zipper
- 1 button
- 2 snaps
- Hook-and-loop tape
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 1 piece on fold
- Front Right Facing – 1 piece
- Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Pocket – 1 piece
- Upper Pocket – 1 piece
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Ties – 2 pieces (no pattern piece)
- From lining fabric:
- Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Pocket – 1 piece
- Upper Pocket – 1 piece
- From synthetic wadding:
- Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Pocket – 1 piece
- Upper Pocket – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the wadding pieces to the corresponding lining pieces with a long stitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the Front Skirt to the Front Yoke and press the seam allowance towards the yoke.
- Stitch the Lower Pocket and Upper Pocket to the main-fabric Pocket Facing (gusset).
- Turn the pocket right side out.
- Place the two Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and stitch.
- Turn right side out, baste, and press.
- Assemble the pocket lining (and wadding) pieces in the same way.
- Insert the main fabric pocket into the lining and stitch along the upper edge, leaving the lining edge unstitched where the flap will be attached.
- Fold the pocket lining inside the pocket, hand stitch the lower edge of the flap to the lower pocket lining.
- Topstitch the pocket flap, stitch on the hook-and-loop tape as marked and topstitch the pocket edges.
- Attach the upper part of the snap to the pocket and the lower part to the Front Skirt.
- Place the main-fabric front and the front lining right sides together and stitch along the left side from the slit mark downwards, the bottom of the garment, and along the right side upwards to the mark.
- Clip the side seam allowances at the marks, trim the wadding out of the seam allowances and turn right side out.
- Baste the seam allowances, straighten the corners, press.
- Stitch the Back Yokes to the Back Skirt pieces, trim the wadding, press the seam allowances towards the yoke.
- Stitch the center back seam of the main-fabric back up to the yoke, trim the wadding, press the seam allowance open.
- Insert the zipper into the back yoke.
- Stitch the center back seam of the back lining up to the start of the zipper.
- Trim the wadding and press the seam allowance open.
- Place the main-fabric back and the back lining right sides together and stitch along the left side from the slit mark downwards, the bottom of the garment, and along the right side upwards along the slit to the mark.
- Clip the side seam allowances at the marks, trim the wadding out of the seam allowances and turn right side out.
- Baste the seam allowances, straighten the corners, press.
- Turn under the zipper allowances of the lining and sew them to the zipper tape.
- Place the front and back panels right sides together and stitch the side seams of the main fabric and press them open.
- Turn the skirt so that the lining pieces are right sides together and stitch the lining side seams.
- Trim the wadding and press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the skirt right side out.
- Topstitch the vent overlap onto the front as marked and stitch on the hook-and-loop tape.
- Stitch the wadding to the wrong side of the Waistband.
- Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and stitch the short ends.
- Turn the waistband right side out.
- On the outer side, work 2 buttonholes for the ties as marked.
- Fold each tie in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and one short side.
- Turn right side out, baste, and press.
- Thread the ties through the buttonholes and secure them on the inside of the waistband near the side seams.
- Place the waistband and skirt right sides together and stitch.
- Trim the wadding from the seam allowance, press the seam allowance towards the waistband.
- Turn under the inner edge of the waistband and stitch it in the ditch of the waistband seam.
- Work a buttonhole on the waistband as marked and sew on the button.
