Lined Princess Seam Jacket with Flap Pockets
A women's fitted, hip-length single-breasted jacket with princess seams from the armholes on the front and back, a notched collar, framed double-welt pockets with flaps and two-piece sleeves with a buttoned vent. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office, as part of a suit with a matching skirt or trousers.
- In spring and autumn over blouses, fine knitwear and dresses.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.
Length: Hip length, with rounded front corners at the hem.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; upper collar joined to the facings and back neck facing, lower collar interfaced.
Closure: Single-breasted, buttonholes on the right front, 20 mm buttons.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap and a vent in the elbow seam, closed with three 12 mm buttons.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with lined flaps on the side fronts, the flaps edgestitched 1 mm from the edge; lining pocket bags with an underlay piece.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Shoulder pads; interfaced hems and sleeve vents.
Lining: Full lining with a centre back ease pleat and an ease fold at the hem; bagged out through an opening in one sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Framed double-welt pockets with flaps, a notched collar set with facings, two-piece sleeves with vents, a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics from blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Matching lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, back neck facing, lower collar, pocket flaps, strips under the pocket openings, hem allowances, sleeve hems and vents)
- 3 buttons, 20 mm diameter
- 6 buttons, 12 mm diameter
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Pocket Facing – 4 pieces
- Pocket Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces (2 upper, 2 lower)
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Lower Collar, main-fabric Pocket Flaps; also a strip about 4 cm wide over each pocket marking, and interfacing on the hem allowances of the back pieces and on the sleeve hems and vents.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Lower Collar, Pocket Flaps and Back Neckline Facing (heat-activated interfacing is pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch the center back seam.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back and front.
- Make double-welt pockets with flaps: place the main-fabric and lining Pocket Flaps right sides together, stitch along the sides and lower edge, turn and press. Topstitch 1 mm from the edge.
- On the wrong side of the front, iron a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking.
- Place two Pocket Facings right sides together with the front, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the facings align with the center line of the pocket marking.
- Cut the front lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the facings!
- Press the cut allowances away from the opening.
- Turn the facings through the slit to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the facings in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch into the attachment seams.
- Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and stitch them to the facings precisely from the ends of the upper stitching line to the ends of the lower one.
- Insert the raw edges of the flaps between the facings, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper facings.
- Turn under the allowance on one long edge of the Pocket Underlay Piece and topstitch it onto the upper Pocket Bag.
- From the inside, stitch the pocket bags to the seam allowances of the flap attachments and to the seam allowances of the lower facing attachments.
- Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch them together.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and Center Front Facings, attach the upper collar to the neckline of the facing and Center Front Facings; press the seam allowances open, clip curves.
- Place the upper collar, combined with the Center Front Facings, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the front edges and collar; turn right side out and press; hand-stitch the raw edge of the upper collar to the neckline.
- From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and collar, baste.
- Reinforce the seam allowance for the sleeve hem and the vent with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the sleeve seams, leaving the vents open at the elbow seams of the sleeves.
- Above the vent marking, clip the seam allowances of the lower sleeve pieces. Press the seam allowances open above the vent.
- Finish the sleeves with a hem. Press the vent edges on the upper sleeve pieces to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the vent edges together from the inside.
- Ease the sleeve cap with small running stitches between the indicated markings and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink out the fullness with the tip of a hot iron.
- Pin the sleeve to the garment, aligning the control notches, and stitch, sewing from the sleeve side.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Lining: form the center back ease pleat in the lining and secure it below the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline.
- Stitch the darts on the lining pieces.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the sleeves.
- Place the lining and the jacket right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket along the inner edges of the facings and the neckline.
- At the lower edge, form an ease fold in the lining and stitch the lining to the raw edge of the hem allowance.
- Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched sleeve section, then stitch this section closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front according to the markings and sew on the buttons.
