Calf-Length Jacket with Single-Breasted Closure

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. Side FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 4. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 5. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 6. Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 7. Upper COLLAR - 1 QTY
• 8. Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
• 9. Front FACING - 2 QTY
• 10. Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY
• 11. Pocket FACING - 4 QTY
• 12. Pocket stay - 2 QTY
• 13. Pocket flap - 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 14. Upper pocket bag - 2 QTY
• 15. Lower pocket bag - 2 QTY
• 16. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 17. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 18. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 19. Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 20. Pocket flap - 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the front FACINGs, back neckline FACING, lower COLLAR, and pocket flaps. Additionally, iron FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem of the back panels.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the front FACINGs, lower COLLAR, pocket flaps, and back neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. Stitch the BACK PANEL along the center line.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL.
4. Create WELT POCKETS WITH TWO FACINGS AND FLAPS: Neatly stitch the flap pieces from main and LINING fabrics right sides together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, iron a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two pocket FACINGS on the FRONT PANEL, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL along the line between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the FACINGS through the slit to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGS in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch in the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and stitch them to the FACINGS precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Insert the open edges of the flaps between the FACINGS, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGS. Fold under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of one long side of the pocket stay and topstitch the pocket stay to the upper pocket bag. Stitch the pocket bags from the inside to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap attachments and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachments. Trim and even out the pocket bags, then stitch them together.
5. Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams.
7. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACINGs; attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and front FACINGs; press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip curves.
8. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the front FACINGs, onto the main garment right side in, and stitch the front edges and COLLAR; turn out and press; hem the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline.
9. From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and COLLAR, baste.
10. Reinforce the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the SLEEVE hem and the vent with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
11. Stitch the SLEEVE seams, leaving the vents open at the elbow seams of the SLEEVES. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower SLEEVE parts above the vent marking. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open above the vent. Finish the SLEEVES with a hem. Press the edges of the vents on the upper SLEEVE parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the edges of the vents to each other from the inside.
12. Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, matching the control marks, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Attach shoulder pads.
13. LINING - Create a ease pleat and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment. Stitch the darts on the LINING pieces. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Insert the LINING into the main garment, right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the main garment to the LINING along the front FACINGs and neckline. Create a ease pleat at the bottom and stitch the LINING to the hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed. Make buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings and sew on the buttons.