Flared Trousers with Paneled Lower Leg
Full-length women's trousers that flare from the knee, with a V-shaped seam across each front leg below the knee, a button at the point of each V, and two lower front panels whose edgestitched inner edges run from the point to the hem. Zip fly, waistband with belt loops, jeans-style front pockets and back patch pockets.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear in spring and autumn with shirts, knit tops and fitted jackets.
- With heeled shoes or boots that sit under the flared hem.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close through the hip and thigh, flaring from the knee to a wide hem.
Legs: Each front leg is cut in three parts: the upper front and two lower pieces (left and right). The inner long edges of the lower pieces are pressed under and edgestitched, then the upper front is joined to them along the V-shaped edge; the allowances are pressed up and edgestitched on the upper part. A button is sewn at each V point.
Closure: Front zip fly with cut-on fly facings and a fly shield; the waistband fastens with one buttonhole and button.
Pockets: Curved front pockets, openings topstitched 0.75 cm from the edge; the side front panel is cut in one with the pocket bag. Patch pockets on the back.
Back: Back legs cut in one piece each, with a back crotch seam.
Waist: Straight interfaced waistband, folded in half and stitched in the ditch, with four belt loops caught into the waistband seam and topstitched at the top.
Finishing: Side seams, inseams and crotch seam pressed open; hem turned up and sewn.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip fly with fly shield, front pockets with a combined side panel and pocket bag, and a shaped V seam joining the upper and lower leg panels.
Fabric Recommendations
Blended suiting fabrics with added elastic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- 1 zipper
- 3 buttons (1 for the waistband, 2 for the V points)
- Fusible interfacing (waistband)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Front Half – 2 pieces
- Lower Left Front Half – 2 pieces
- Lower Right Front Half – 2 pieces
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Front Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Back Pocket – 2 pieces
- Button Catch – 1 piece
- Belt-Loop – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Side Front Panel (cut in one with the pocket bag) – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the waistband with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the Front Pocket Bags to the pocket openings of the Upper Front Halves, right sides together. Trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm. Turn the pocket bags to the wrong side. Topstitch the openings 0.75 cm from the edge. Pin the front halves onto the Side Front Panels along the marking lines and baste at the top and bottom of the openings. From the inside, stitch the Front Pocket Bags to the pocket-bag part of the Side Front Panels.
- Baste the Side Front Panels to the front halves along the front, upper and side edges.
- Press under the inner long edges of the Lower Left and Lower Right Front Halves and edgestitch. Stitch the Upper Front Half to the lower pieces along the shaped (V) edge. Press the allowances towards the upper part and edgestitch on the upper part.
- Place the front halves right sides together and stitch the front crotch seam from the fly opening mark, stopping about 2 cm before the inseam line.
- Zipper closure: Press the cut-on facings of the zipper closure to the wrong side. Stitch the zipper under the edge of the closure allowance (left side) close to the edge. Stitch the free zipper tape to the cut-on facing of the right half. Fold the Button Catch (fly shield) in half lengthwise and stitch the short upper and lower ends; turn out. Stitch the cut-on zipper facing to the Button Catch on the left half. Topstitch the right side of the fly opening, catching the facing.
- Fold one front and one back right sides together. Stitch side seams. Stitch inseams. Press seam allowances open. In one step, stitch the back crotch seam and the unstitched part of the front crotch seam. Press seam allowances open from the top to the beginning of the curves.
- Stitch the belt loops along the long side and one short end, then turn them out.
- Stitch one of the longitudinal edges of the waistband to the upper edge of the pants, right sides together, leaving the extension protruding at the left side of the fly. When stitching, insert the unstitched ends of the belt loops between the waistband and the pants. Press the seam allowances of the attachment towards the waistband. Fold the waistband in half widthwise, right side in, and stitch the front ends. Turn the waistband out and, from the right side, stitch in the ditch of the waistband seam. Topstitch the finished ends of the belt loops onto the waistband.
- Bottom edge: Turn up the hem allowance to the wrong side and sew.
- Make a buttonhole on the right end of the waistband. Sew a button to the left end.
- Sew the decorative buttons onto the points of the Upper Front Halves.
