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#5125
#5127

Tailored Straight Leg Trousers

Pattern #5126

Long women's trousers with straight legs, a front zip fly and no separate waistband: the waist is finished with facings cut in one with the front and back. Darts at the front and back waist, four belt loops and a single button. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: natural or blended suiting fabrics.

Tech. Description

Tailored Straight Leg Trousers

Long women's trousers with straight legs, a front zip fly and no separate waistband: the waist is finished with facings cut in one with the front and back. Darts at the front and back waist, four belt loops and a single button.

When To Wear

  • To the office with blouses, shirts and jackets.
  • All year round in suiting of a weight to suit the season.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight legs with pressed creases at the front and back.

Waist: No waistband. Grown-on facings, interfaced, are turned to the inside at the top edge, hand-sewn to the zipper tape and tacked to the seam allowances and darts. Four belt loops are topstitched onto the trousers.

Front: Waist darts, dart depths pressed toward the centre.

Closure: Front zip fly, 22 cm zipper, with cut-on fly facings and a fly shield; one buttonhole on the right half and a button on the left.

Back: One piece per leg with waist darts.

Finishing: Side seams, inseams and crotch seam pressed open; hem turned up and sewn by hand.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A zip fly with fly shield and a waist finished with grown-on facings instead of a waistband.

Fabric Recommendations

Natural or blended suiting fabrics.

Additional Supplies

  • 1 zipper, 22 cm long
  • 1 button
  • Fusible interfacing (grown-on waist facings)

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Front Half – 2 pieces
  • Back Half – 2 pieces
  • Belt Loop – 4 pieces
  • Fly Shield – 1 piece
  • From fusible interfacing: the facing areas of the Front Half and Back Half.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Reinforce the grown-on facings with fusible interfacing.
  2. Stitch darts, press dart fullness towards the center.
  3. Stitch side seams. Stitch inseams. Press seam allowances open. In one step, stitch the front and back center seams, leaving an unstitched section for the zipper closure. Press seam allowances open from the top down to the beginning of the curves.
  4. Zipper closure: Press the grown-on facings of the zipper closure to the wrong side. Stitch the zipper under the edge of the seam allowance for the closure (left side) close to the edge. Stitch the free zipper tape to the grown-on facing of the right leg. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise, stitch the upper and lower short edges. Topstitch the grown-on zipper facing of the left leg onto the Fly Shield. Topstitch the right edge of the opening, catching the facing.
  5. Upper edge of pants: Turn the grown-on facings to the wrong side, press the upper edge. Fold under the facings from the inside, sew onto the zipper tape. Additionally, sew the lower edges of the facings to the seam allowances and dart fullness.
  6. Topstitch the belt loops onto the pant panels.
  7. Make a buttonhole on the right half of the trousers and sew a button onto the left half.
  8. Lower edge: Turn the hem seam allowances to the wrong side and hand stitch.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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