Tailored Single-Breasted Jacket with Double Welt Pockets
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with princess seams on the front and back, a notched collar with the upper collar in a contrasting fabric, and double-welt pockets set into a horizontal seam on the side fronts. Single-breasted with three buttons, two-piece sleeves with vents, fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office with trousers or a skirt in the same fabric.
- Over a blouse or a fine knit with jeans in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.
Length: Hip length; the front edges are cut away below the last button.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the upper collar is cut from a contrasting fabric, the under collar from the main fabric, both interfaced.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front; separate front facings.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and a vent in the elbow seam, its edges stitched together from the inside.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets in the seam between the upper and lower side fronts; the welts (frames) are cut from the contrasting fabric and interfaced.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: The facings are stitched to the hem allowance and the front edges, collar and hem are faced in one operation; shoulder pads; fronts, facings and back neck facing interfaced.
Lining: Full bagged lining: the lining fronts are cut in one piece with darts instead of princess seams, the lining back has a 1 cm ease pleat at the centre back, and the jacket is turned through a 20 cm opening in a sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Double-welt pockets in a seam, a notched collar set between jacket and facings, sleeve vents, eased sleeve caps and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Main fabric: jacket-weight suiting, crepe or gabardine. Contrasting fabric for the upper collar and pocket welts: satin or another fabric of similar weight.
Additional Supplies
- Contrasting fabric (upper collar, pocket welts)
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (under and upper collar, fronts, facings, back neck facing, pocket welts, hem allowances of the back and sleeves, sleeve vents)
- Buttons for the front
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From contrasting fabric:
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Frame – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces (see note)
- Center Back – 1 piece (on fold, see note)
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces (see note)
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces (see note)
- Lower Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Frame – 4 pieces
- Strips for the hem allowances of the back pieces and sleeves
Lining note: Join the Center Front, Upper Side Front and Lower Side Front into one front piece, replacing the princess seams with darts, and cut it minus the width of the Center Front Facing. Cut the sleeve lining hems with a seam allowance only, without the vent. Cut the Center Back minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing, placing the center back line parallel to the fabric fold to add an ease pleat approx. 1 cm deep. Cut the Side Back unchanged.
Sewing Instructions
- Double-welt pockets: Place one frame (welt) on the upper side front and the other on the lower side front, right sides together. Pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Press the frames away from the opening, turn them to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste. Stitch in the ditch of the attachment seams.
- From the inside, stitch the upper pocket bag and the lower pocket bag to the frame seam allowances. Baste the pocket openings with cross stitches, precisely aligning the edges of the openings. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch along the bottom edge.
- On the fronts, stitch the princess seams and press them open.
- On the back, stitch the center back seam and princess seams and press them open.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the lower collar into the neckline. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings, and stitch the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam allowances open and clip the curves.
- Place the upper collar with the attached facings on the jacket, right sides together. Stitch the side edges of the center front facings to the back hem allowance, then stitch the front edges, collar and hem; turn right side out and press. Hand-stitch the neckline allowance of the upper collar to the neckline seam.
- From the right side, roll the front edges, hem and collar into position and baste.
- Two-piece sleeves: Interface the hem allowance of the sleeve and the vent with fusible interfacing. Stitch the sleeve seams, leaving the vents open at the elbow seams of the sleeves. Clip the allowances of the lower sleeve parts above the vent mark. Press open the allowances above the vent. Hem the sleeves. Press the vent edges on the upper sleeve parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents closed and, from the inside, stitch the vent edges to each other.
- Setting the sleeves: Run small ease stitches along the sleeve cap between the marks and pull the thread to fit the armhole. Dampen the fabric and shrink out the fullness with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the sleeve to the garment, aligning the control marks, and stitch, sewing from the sleeve side. Attach shoulder pads.
- Lining: Fold the ease pleat at the center back and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the garment's hemline. Stitch the darts on the lining pieces. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the sleeves. Insert the lining into the main garment, right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the lining to the center front facings and back neckline facing. Form an ease fold at the lower edge and stitch the lining to the edge of the hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched sleeve section, then stitch this section closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front according to the markings and sew on buttons.
