Single-Breasted Peplum Jacket
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with a notched collar, a single-breasted front with side front panels, and a back joined at the waist to a separate lower back that forms the peplum. Two-piece sleeves, full lining.
When To Wear
- For office wear, with a pencil skirt or slim trousers.
- Over blouses and fine knits in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist, flaring over the hips below the waist seam at the back.
Length: Hip length, with rounded corners at the front hem.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; collar pieces cut on the fold, the upper collar joined to the facings and back neckline facing, the under collar to the jacket neckline.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, the hems finished with an interfaced hem facing.
Front: Centre front and side front panels, with bust darts and waist darts on the centre fronts. Separate front facings.
Closure: Single-breasted, buttonholes on the right front; four buttons in the photo.
Back: Upper back and lower back, each cut on the fold with no centre back seam, shaped with darts and joined by a horizontal waist seam.
Finishing: Shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, sewn to the facings and to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar set between the jacket and the facings, two-piece sleeves with hem facings, a waist seam at the back, full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight jacket fabrics with body: wool tweed, herringbone, wool suiting, bouclé.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, collar, sleeve hem facings, back neckline facing)
- Buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower Back – 1 piece on fold
- Collar – 2 pieces on fold
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Hem Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on fold
- From lining:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower Back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces on fold
- Sleeve Hem Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on fold
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the waist and bust darts on the Center Fronts. Stitch the darts on the Back and Lower Back.
- Stitch the Side Fronts to the Center Fronts.
- Stitch the Lower Back to the Back.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams.
- Place the two Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge; trim, turn right side out and press.
- Place the Center Front Facings right sides together with the fronts and stitch along the front edges and lapels up to the collar attachment point. Clip the seam allowance at this point. Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the upper ends of the Center Front Facings. Place the collar, raw edges open, between the jacket and the facings, with the under collar lying on the jacket. Stitch the upper collar to the neckline of the facings and the under collar to the jacket neckline. Clip the allowances on the curves several times. Press the seam allowances open. Turn the facings to the wrong side and press the edges. From the inside, stitch the collar seam allowances together along the back neckline.
- Turn the Center Front Facings back to the right side. Fold the hem allowance to the wrong side up to the front edges and sew it in place. Turn the facings to the wrong side again and sew them to the hem allowance.
- Stitch the sleeve seams. Stitch the seams of the Sleeve Hem Facings. Finish the sleeve hems with the facings. Clip the allowances and press. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the seams of the lining. Stitch the front edges of the lining right sides together to the Center Front Facings, starting and finishing the seam about 8 cm from the bottom edge. Turn the lining into the jacket, wrong sides together. Turn under the raw edges of the lining and sew them to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves. Sew the remaining open front edges of the lining to the facings.
- Make buttonholes along the right front as marked. Sew on the buttons.
