Country-Style Jacket
A hip-length women's jacket with a notched collar, four bound buttonholes, patch pockets and side slits. All outer edges are bound with tape; fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring, over knitwear, shirts or blouses.
- For country and weekend wear with trousers, jeans or a tweed skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, shaped with darts.
Length: Hip length, with slits at the side seams.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; one collar piece is set into the outer jacket neckline, the other into the lining neckline.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves; the lining sleeves have sleeve hem facings in main fabric.
Closure: Single-breasted, four bound buttonholes on the right front made with binding-tape welts, plus one buttonhole on the right lapel with a button sewn under it.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the fronts, lined and interfaced, with tops bound in tape, edgestitched in place.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, no centre back seam.
Finishing: Front edges, collar, hem and sleeve hems stitched through both layers 0.5 cm from the marked lines, trimmed and bound with tape. Shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining, tacked to the shoulder pads and to the side seam allowances under the arm; lining under the buttonholes slit and hand-stitched to the welts.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Bound buttonholes through two layers, edges bound through the jacket and lining together, a collar split between jacket and lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium to heavy wool fabrics with body: tweed, wool flannel, bouclé, loden.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, pockets)
- Binding tape (edges, pocket tops and 10 strips of 5 cm for the buttonhole welts)
- 5 buttons (4 for the front, 1 for the lapel)
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (on fold)
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (on fold)
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From binding tape:
- Buttonhole welts – 10 strips, 5 cm long
Sewing Instructions
- Make 4 bound buttonholes on the right outer front and 1 buttonhole on the lapel of the right inner (lining) front: cut 10 strips of binding tape, 5 cm long each (= buttonhole welts), and press them in half.
- On the right side, stitch 2 welts 0.75 cm from the buttonhole mark along the upper and lower lines so that the folded edges of the welts meet exactly in the middle of the buttonhole.
- Cut the front between the stitching lines, stopping short of the ends, then clip diagonally to the ends of the stitching without cutting the welts.
- Pull the welts through to form an even frame and press. Turn the ends of the welts and the small triangles to the wrong side.
- Baste the folds of the welts together. Stitch the small triangles to the welts from the wrong side.
- Stitch the darts and the shoulder seams on the outer and inner (lining) jacket.
- Stitch the sleeve hem facings to the lining sleeves.
- Set the main fabric sleeves into the armholes of the outer jacket and the lining sleeves into the armholes of the inner jacket.
- Stitch the sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous seam, leaving the sides open below the slit marks.
- Stitch one collar piece into the neckline of the outer jacket up to the mark, and the second collar piece into the neckline of the inner jacket, clipping the front seam allowances to the corner of the notch. Press the collar seam allowances open.
- Trim the cut-on top allowance of the pockets along the mark. Bind the pocket tops with binding tape. Press the seam allowances of the remaining pocket edges to the wrong side.
- Pin the pockets to the fronts along the marked lines and edgestitch.
- Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Place the lining inside the jacket, wrong sides together. Tack the lining to the shoulder pads at the top of the armhole and to the side seam allowances at the bottom of the armhole.
- Stitch the front edges, collar, jacket hem and sleeve hems 0.5 cm outside the marked lines through both layers. Trim the seam allowances along the marked lines. Bind the edges with binding tape.
- Baste both layers together around the buttonholes. Except at the lapel buttonhole, cut the lining under each buttonhole through the middle and diagonally to the ends of the welt seams. Turn the cut edges under and hand-stitch them to the welts.
- Sew the buttons to the left front, and one button under the buttonhole of the right lapel.
