Fitted Jacket with Sleeve Turnups
A hip-length women's jacket fitted with princess seams at the front and back, with a notched collar, a single-breasted three-button front and double-welt pockets. The upper collar and the turn-up cuffs of the two-piece sleeves are faced with a contrasting trim fabric.
When To Wear
- At the office and for business meetings, with matching trousers or a skirt.
- In spring and autumn over a blouse or a fine knit top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped at the waist by front and back princess seams.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the upper collar has a band of contrasting trim fabric along its edge.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttonholes on the right front; centre front facings.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and a strip of wadding about 4 cm wide in the sleeve head. Separate turn-up cuffs, the upper cuff faced with trim fabric, sewn to the sleeve hem and turned out to the right side.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets on the fronts, with welts cut from the trim fabric. The fronts are cut as a centre front and an upper and lower side front, and the pockets sit at the level where the side front is divided.
Back: Centre back seam and back princess seams.
Finishing: Back neckline facing; shoulder pads.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Double-welt pockets, two-piece sleeves with eased caps, a collar set between the jacket and the facings, and faced turn-up cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven suiting with body: wool and wool-blend suiting, wool crepe, gabardine. For the collar band, cuff facings and pocket welts, a contrasting fabric such as satin or a second suiting colour.
Additional Supplies
- Contrasting trim fabric (upper collar facing, upper cuff facings, pocket welts)
- Lining fabric for 2 pocket bags
- Fusible interfacing (centre front facings, back neckline facing, lower collar, lower cuffs)
- 3 buttons
- Wadding strips about 4 cm wide for the sleeve heads
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower Cuff – 2 pieces
- Upper Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining:
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From contrasting trim fabric:
- Upper Collar Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Cuff Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket Facing – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the front princess seams.
- Double-welt pockets: Place both bias pocket facings (welts) of each pocket on the front, right sides together, pin along the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marked stitching lines, aligning the long edges of the pocket facings exactly with the pocket opening line.
- Cut the front along the opening between the stitching lines, cutting diagonally towards the front ends of the stitching. Be careful not to cut the pocket facings!
- Press the seam allowances open. Turn the pocket facings through the opening to the wrong side, wrapping them around the seam allowances, and baste.
- From the right side, stitch in the ditch of the pocket facing seams.
- Turn the small triangle at the front end of the opening to the wrong side and stitch it to the pocket facings, exactly from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other.
- Join the folds of the welts with an invisible hand stitch.
- From the wrong side, attach the pocket bags: the lining pocket bag to the seam allowances of the lower pocket facing, the main fabric pocket bag to the seam allowances of the upper pocket facing.
- Press the pocket bags downwards, trim them even and stitch them together.
- Stitch the back princess seams, the side seams and the shoulder seams. When stitching the side seams, do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags.
- Two-piece sleeves: Stitch the sleeve seams.
- Stitch the upper cuff facings to the upper cuffs. Stitch the side seams of the cuffs, stitch the upper cuff to the lower cuff, turn right side out and press.
- Place the cuffs with their right side against the wrong side of the sleeve. Stitch the lower edge of the sleeve and cuff together. Turn the cuff out to the right side.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps. Sew a strip of wadding approx. 4 cm wide to the armhole seam allowances in the sleeve cap area.
- Stitch the upper collar facing to the upper collar. Stitch the upper and lower collar together along the outer edges, turn and baste the open edges together into the neckline.
- Place the center front facings on the fronts, right sides together, and stitch along the front edges and lapels up to the collar point. Clip the seam allowance at this point.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the upper ends of the center front facings.
- Place the collar with its open edges between the jacket and the facings, with the lower collar lying on the jacket. Stitch the upper collar to the neckline of the facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lower collar into the jacket neckline.
- Clip the seam allowances on the curves several times. Press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side and press the edges. From the inside, stitch together the collar seam allowances along the back neckline.
- Fold the center front facings forward. Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side up to the front edges and stitch. Turn the facings back to the wrong side. Hem the jacket and sew the facings to the hem allowance.
- Sew the shoulder pads to the armhole and shoulder seam allowances.
- Make 3 buttonholes on the right front. Sew on the buttons.
