Princess Seam Blazer
A women's fitted, fully lined jacket with princess seams front and back, a notched collar with rounded ends, a single-breasted three-button front with rounded corners, pockets hidden in the front princess seams and two-piece sleeves.
When To Wear
- Office wear with trousers or a skirt, in autumn and spring.
- Over dresses and blouses as a light outer layer indoors.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams running from the armholes on the fronts and the back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with rounded corners on the collar and lapels; upper and under collar cut separately, with a small vertical neck dart sewn as part of the collar setting.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front; front edges faced, corners rounded at the top and at the hem.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the front princess seams, with lining fabric pocket bags.
Sleeves: Two-piece, set-in, with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Fronts, facings, collar and hems interfaced; the drawing shows edge stitching along the collar, lapels, front edges, hem and sleeve hems.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining and held with seven bar tacks above the seams at the hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Two-piece sleeves, a notched collar, in-seam pockets in princess seams, full lining bagged through the sleeve, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics with synthetic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back Lining – 1 piece
- Side Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Side Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Neckline Facing, Side Front, Front, upper part of the Back including the armhole area, hem area of the Back, armhole area of the Side Back, hem area of the Side Back, hem area of the Lower Sleeve, hem area of the Upper Sleeve, Upper Collar and Lower Collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Neckline Facing, Side Front, Front, the upper part of the Back including the armhole area, the hem area of the Back, the armhole and hem areas of the Side Back, the hem areas of the Lower Sleeve and Upper Sleeve, and the collar.
- Place a Pocket Bag right side down on the right side of the Side Front and of the Front at the notches and stitch. Turn the seam towards the Pocket Bag and topstitch the seam allowance onto the Pocket Bag.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Side Front to Front) together with the Pocket Bags. Clip the princess seam allowances and press them open, pressing the pocket in place.
- Stitch the Center Front Facings to the front edges, rounding the corners at the top and at the hem. Trim, then turn out the front corners at the top and at the hem.
- Stitch the Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings and press open the shoulder seams of the facings.
- Stitch the centre back seam and the back princess seams (Back to Side Back). Press the princess seams and the centre back seam open.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press the shoulder and side seams open.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge, rounding the ends. Trim and turn out the collar corners.
- Stitch the Upper Collar into the front neckline along the gorge line (from the notch). Press the gorge seams open.
- Stitch the vertical dart, continuing the collar seam.
- Stitch in the Lower Collar. Press open the vertical darts and the collar seam.
- Tack the seam allowances of the collar seams together.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open.
- Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Stitch the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the right sleeve lining. Press the lining.
- Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the lining to the Center Front Facings and the Neckline Facing, to the jacket hem (matching the lining seams to the jacket seams) and to the sleeve hems. Make 7 bar tacks at the jacket hem above the seams.
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
