Princess Seam Blazer
A women's fitted, fully lined jacket with princess seams front and back, a notched collar with rounded ends, a single-breasted three-button front with rounded corners, pockets hidden in the front princess seams and two-piece sleeves.
When To Wear
- Office wear with trousers or a skirt, in autumn and spring.
- Over dresses and blouses as a light outer layer indoors.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams running from the armholes on the fronts and the back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with rounded corners on the collar and lapels; upper and under collar cut separately, with a small vertical neck dart sewn as part of the collar setting.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front; front edges faced, corners rounded at the top and at the hem.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the front princess seams, with lining fabric pocket bags.
Sleeves: Two-piece, set-in, with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Fronts, facings, collar and hems interfaced; the drawing shows edge stitching along the collar, lapels, front edges, hem and sleeve hems.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining and held with seven bar tacks above the seams at the hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Two-piece sleeves, a notched collar, in-seam pockets in princess seams, full lining bagged through the sleeve, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics with synthetic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Back – 1 piece
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under facing – 2 pieces
- Neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 1 piece
- Back side - 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: under facing, back neckline facing, front side, center front, upper of the center back with armhole section, lower of the center back, armhole of the back side, lower of the back side, lower of the lower sleeve, lower of the upper sleeve, collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the under facing, back neckline facing, front side, center front, upper of the center back with armhole section, lower of the center back, armhole of the back side, lower of the back side, lower of the lower sleeve, lower of the upper sleeve, collar.
- Place the pocket bag right side down onto the right side of the side and center front panels, aligning with the notches, and stitch. Fold back the seam and topstitch onto the pocket bag.
- Stitch the front princess seams and the pocket bag. Clip the princess SEAMs and press open, pressing the pocket.
- Face the jacket fronts with the under FACINGs, rounding the corners at the top and bottom. Trim, turn out the corners of the jacket front at the top and bottom.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the under FACINGs and press open the shoulder SEAMs of the facing and under facing.
- Stitch the center back seam and the back princess seams. Press open the princess seams and the center back seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side SEAMs of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side SEAMs.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and face the lower collar with the upper collar, rounding the ends. Trim, turn out the collar corners.
- Stitch the lapel of the upper collar into the front neckline. Press open the lapels.
- Stitch the vertical dart, continuing the collar attachment.
- Stitch in the lower collar. Press open the vertical darts and the collar attachment seam.
- Secure the collar attachment SEAMs.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve.
- Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning with the notches.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the right sleeve. Press the lining.
- Stitch in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the lining to the under FACINGs and back neckline facing, to the bottom of the jacket, aligning the lining SEAMs with the garment SEAMs, to the bottom of the garment sleeve. Place 7 bar tacks at the bottom of the jacket above the SEAMs.
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the technical opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
