Long Double Breasted Flared Coat
A long women's double-breasted coat, fitted at the waist and flaring to the hem through vertical panel seams front and back. Notched collar, vertical welt pockets in the front panel seams, a pleat in the lower back under a buttoned half-belt, full lining.
When To Wear
- In autumn and winter over dresses, skirts and trousers.
- Over a suit or evening dress where a long coat is needed.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bust and waist, flaring to the hem; shaped by two panel seams on each side of the front and back.
Length: Long, well below the knee.
Collar: Notched collar; the upper collar is cut in one with the front facings and has a centre back seam.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a vent in the elbow seam, eased into the armhole at the cap.
Closure: Double-breasted, eight buttons in two rows of four.
Front: Centre front, side front 1 and side front 2 panels on each side.
Pockets: Vertical pockets with two-layer welts set into the seam between side front 1 and side front 2; welts topstitched 0.5 cm from the edges, short ends stitched down to the front.
Back: Centre back cut on the fold above the waist; below it a lower back with a centre seam and a stitched pleat. A two-layer half-belt, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edges, is buttoned on over the seam between the centre back and lower back. Two side back panels on each side.
Finishing: Front edges and collar stitched with the facings and turned; interfaced hem allowances; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with separate front, back and two-piece sleeve pieces, sewn to the sleeve hems and the inner edges of the facings and back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Many long panel seams, in-seam welt pockets, a pleat stitched in the lower back, a sleeve vent, a notched collar cut in one with the facings, a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight coating that holds a flared shape: wool coating, lightweight drap, wool-blend coating, velour.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (lining and pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, under layers of the welts, half-belt, hem allowances)
- 8 buttons for the front, plus buttons for the half-belt
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back 2 – 2 pieces
- Side Back 1 – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Pocket Off-Set Welt – 4 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Side Front 2 – 2 pieces
- Side Front 1 – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric (lining pattern pieces):
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Pocket Off-Set Welt (lower/under layers) – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
- Strips for the hem allowances
Attention! The Pocket Bag and the lining Back, Front, Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve pattern pieces are cut from lining fabric only.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the center seam of the Lower Back and press it open. Matching the notches, fold and baste the pleat. Then stitch it in place, stitching through the upper allowance slightly above the marked stitching line.
- Assemble the back: stitch the Center Back to the Lower Back, then stitch the panel seams (Side Back 1 and Side Back 2).
- Place the two Strap pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides, turn right side out and press. Turn in the open edge and topstitch around the Strap 0.5 cm from the edges. Attach the Strap to the back with buttons, covering the seam joining the Center Back and the Lower Back.
- Place two Pocket Off-Set Welt pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides, turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the edges of the welt 0.5 cm from the edge. Align the open edges of the welt with the panel seam edge of Side Front 2, placing the welt on the right side of Side Front 2 with its upper end at the notch; place one Pocket Bag on top of the welt and baste all layers together. Place the second Pocket Bag on the right side of Side Front 1. Stitch the welt and pocket bags in place. Stitch the front panel seams. Turn the pocket bags to the inside, align them and stitch them together. Stitch the short ends of the welts to the front, stitching over the topstitching line.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the center back seam of the upper collar, which is cut in one with the Center Front Facings. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Set the under collar into the neckline of the coat and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam allowances open.
- Place the Center Front Facings on the fronts, right sides together, and pin along the front edges; pin the edges of the upper and under collar together. Stitch along the front edges and around the collar and turn. Stitch together, from the inside, the pressed-open allowances of the under collar seam and the Back Neckline Facing seam.
- Hem the coat.
- Stitch the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve seams, making the vent in the elbow seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
- Attach the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together. Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Hem the lining.
- Make the buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
