Wrap Vest with Shawl Collar and Tie Belt
A long women's sleeveless wrap vest, below knee length, with a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, single-welt pockets, a back vent and a self-fabric tie belt. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a blouse or a fine knit, with trousers or a slim skirt.
- Over a dress, tied at the waist with the belt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, gathered in at the waist by the tie belt.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, joined with a centre back collar seam.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with the lining.
Front: Wrap front with no buttons, held by the belt. Each front has a dart and a separate side panel joined along a princess seam and its lower edge.
Pockets: Slanted single-welt pockets with a pocket bag, welt ends topstitched.
Back: Centre back seam ending in a vent at the hem; the vent is interfaced and secured with a line of stitching.
Waist: Separate tie belt, folded in half lengthwise and stitched.
Finishing: Fronts faced along the hem, front edges and collar.
Lining: Full lining attached to the front facings and back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, a back vent, a cut-on shawl collar with a facing, and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight coating in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neck facing, welts, back vent)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 3 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front. Trim seam allowances and press towards the center. Attach the side to the front along the princess seam and bottom edges, clipping the front at the corners. Press seam allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt lengthwise in half, right sides together. Stitch the ends of the welt, trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out and press. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inside of the welt. Stitch the front facing to the large pocket bag. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket bags to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the welt along the short sides from the right side. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- On the back pieces, fuse interfacing to the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center back seam line (vent fold line). Press the left back piece along the vent fold line. Align the pieces along the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm before the vertical edge of the vent. Clip the seam allowance corner of the vent on the right piece. Press the center back seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them on the right side with a machine stitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the vest. Press shoulder and side seams open. Stitch the center seam of the collar. Press seam allowance open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline, clipping the seam allowance at the corner. Clip and press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the facing and front facings. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar. Press seam allowance open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline of the facing, clipping the seam allowance at the corner. Clip and press seam allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the bottom edge, front edge, and collar. Turn the front facings to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Press the lining.
- Attach the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing. Secure the collar attachment seams together.
- Turn the vest right side out through the opening in the lining. Finish the armholes in two steps: first the back armhole, then the front armhole. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Trim seam allowances at corners. Turn the belt right side out and press. Hand stitch the opening closed.
