Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining fabric; fusible interlining; hook and eye for closure.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the vest bottom – 2.5 cm; top edge allowance for the pocket and flap 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Lining for center back – 2 pieces
- Lining for side back – 2 pieces
- Lining for front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front, press allowances towards the center.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim allowances, clip curves. Turn flap right side out and press. Overcast pocket edges. Fold the top allowance inwards and topstitch. Fold the side and bottom allowances inwards and press. Topstitch the pocket according to markings. Mark the position for attaching the flap 1 cm above the pocket. Place the flap on the front, aligning the bottom edge with the marked line. Stitch the flap, then turn it down and make a securing stitch along the top edge.
- Stitch darts on the back. Press allowances towards the center. On the left lower back piece, cut 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both center back pieces, fuse the slit from the wrong side. From the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the top edge of the slit. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Overcast the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam up to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
- Stitch the back princess seams. Overcast allowances and press towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Press allowances open. Stitch side seams. Overcast allowances and press open.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at corners, turn collar right side out and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing. Press allowance open.
- Overcast the inner allowance of the front facing from the mark to the bottom. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge and lapels, inserting the hook and eye into the seam. Turn out the edges and facing, straighten seams. Stitch the undercollar to the neckline of the main garment. Stitch the upper collar to the neckline of the front facing and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Secure the collars together.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams. Overcast the bottom edge, fold inwards and topstitch.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the vest.
- Fold the bottom edge of the vest inwards, press and hem with blind stitches.
