Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: fleece, footer (French terry), or dense knit fabric with medium to low stretch, made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance for garment bottom, sleeve hem – 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece on fold
- Front Yoke – 4 pieces
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker. Attention! Markings on patterns are made on the right side.
Sewing Instructions
- Fold and secure the inverted pleat on the back. Attach the yoke to the back. Overlock the allowance and press it upwards.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn collar right side out, press.
- On the upper edge of the central front piece, fold and secure the inverted pleat.
- Set the collar into the neckline of the front yoke. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Place the inner yokes on the outer ones and stitch along the neckline edge and the center edge. Turn yokes right side out, clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Secure yokes in pairs along the lower and side edges. Place the right yoke over the left and secure along the lower edge.
- Attach the front yoke to the front, clipping the front at the corners. Overlock allowances.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances and overlock.
- Clip collar allowances at the shoulder seam. Attach the lower collar to the back neckline. Fold the allowance of the upper collar inwards and topstitch.
- Set sleeves into open armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overlock. Stitch sleeve edges simultaneously with side edges, press allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and the sleeve hem, fold to the wrong side, press and topstitch.
- Overlock buttonholes and sew on buttons according to markings. Secure the left part of the collar from the wrong side with the attachment seam.
