Wide Collar Asymmetrical Zipper Jacket
A women's hip-length lined jacket with an off-centre separating zipper, a wide collar cut in one with the fronts and facings, zipped pockets on the side fronts and a back yoke. The upper side fronts and back yoke are cut from a second fabric.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over sweaters, shirts and dresses.
- With trousers or jeans for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams at the front and back, hip length.
Collar: Wide grown-on collar cut in one with the centre fronts, joined at the centre back; edges topstitched 0.5–0.7 cm.
Closure: Asymmetrical separating zipper: one half is set into the left front princess seam, the other along the right front edge.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam; shoulder pads.
Pockets: Zipped pockets on the lower side fronts, with the teeth exposed in a cut opening and pocket bags in lining.
Front: Centre front and side front panels; each side front is divided by a horizontal seam into an upper part in the second fabric and a lower part with the pocket.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and a back yoke in the second fabric.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached to the front facings and back neck facing; hem and sleeve hems faced with the lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A zipper set into a princess seam, exposed-zipper pockets with pocket bags, a grown-on collar clipped into the neckline corner, two-piece sleeves and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics from natural or blended fibres in two related or contrasting colours.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing)
- 2 zippers (pockets)
- 1 separating zipper (front)
- Shoulder pads
Fabric & Materials
Also needed: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 2 zippers; 1 separating zipper; shoulder pads.
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3.5 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 2 (related or contrasting color):
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
Attention: The Back Yoke lining piece is cut from the main fabric pattern minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front, Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open. Attach the Back Yoke to the back, press the allowances towards the yoke.
- Stitch the Side Upper Front to the Side Lower Front, press the allowances upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement on the Side Lower Front with parallel lines. Cut the opening, making diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end of the marking. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the opening and straighten the edges. Place a zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Attach the pocket bags (Smaller Pocket Bag and Big Pocket Bag), right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags together.
- On the left front, stitch the princess seam, inserting the left half of the separating zipper tape, press the allowances open. Stitch the right princess seam of the front, press allowances open.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the grown-on collar into the back neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press the allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the grown-on collar of the facings into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press the allowances open.
- Attach the right half of the separating zipper to the front edge of the right front, with the teeth pointing away from the edge. Place the facings on the jacket, right sides together, and stitch the front edges, collar edge, and lower corner of the front. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces to the right side. Topstitch along the front edge and collar at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve), press the allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam, press the allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Press the lining allowances.
- Attach the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances. Turn the garment to the right side, straighten seams.
- Mark and press up the allowance of the lower edge to the wrong side. Finish the lower edge with lining. Turn the garment to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Finish the lower edge of the sleeve with lining. Stitch the opening in the lining sleeve closed.
