Straight Coat with Stand Collar and Sleeve Bands

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining; shoulder pads; sleeve heads; fusible interfacing; 8 snaps.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front — 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing - 1 piece
  • Welt – 2 pieces

Also, armhole areas on the back and front, and the bottom of the garment and sleeves are interfaced. ATTENTION! Lining pieces are cut deducting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the front pieces, press the fullness upwards.
3. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong side in. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overcast the pocket bag edges.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
5. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open.
6. Overcast and press to the wrong side the hem allowance of the garment. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Pin the front facing and the garment top and stitch along the edge. Stitch the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
7. Fold the collars right sides together and stitch the corners and the upper edge. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the collar to the right side and press. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line to the neckline. Attach the upper collar to the garment neckline. And the lower collar - to the neckline of the facing and front facing. Secure the collar allowances together. Topstitch along the edge and collar.
8. Fold the sleeve tab lengthwise in half. Stitch the outer edge and the long side. Trim allowances at the corners, turn to the right side and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the contour.
9. Stitch and press open the sleeve seam, inserting the tab. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
10. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch darts and seams, set sleeves, leaving a technical opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the bottom of the coat and sleeves. Turn inside out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
11. Attach snaps according to marks.