Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interlining; 5 buttons; shoulder pads.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Under collar - 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
ATTENTION: Back and front lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.
- From fusible interlining:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
Also, the armhole allowances of the back, the garment hem, the sleeve hem, and the allowance along the pocket opening are interfaced.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interlining.
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open.
- On the center front part, stitch the darts, press the fullness downwards. Attach the pocket bags to the center front part and side front part, press the allowances towards the pocket bag. Stitch the front princess seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Press the allowances open, clipping the corner on the side front part. Press the pocket bags towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat, press the allowances open.
- Fold the upper collar with the under collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim the seams at the curves, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press the allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams at the corners. Understitch the seam allowance of the front edge: on the fastening section – to the front facing, on the lapel section – to the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- Attach the under collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facings. Press the collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Sew on the shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for subsequent turning. Attach the sleeves. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
- Work buttonholes on the right front piece. Sew buttons on the left front piece. On the left front piece, work one upper buttonhole, sew on the inner button.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening in the middle of the belt. Trim the allowances, turn the belt right side out, press. Close the opening.
