Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: Coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining; decorative ribbon for the sleeve; 7 buttons; shoulder pads; fusible interlining.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION: Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the neckline facing and front facing. ATTENTION: Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Right center front part – 1 piece
- Left center front part – 1 piece
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right front facing – 1 piece
- Left front facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Right center front part – 1 piece
- Left center front part – 1 piece
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag — 4 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Right center front part — 1 piece
- Left center front part – 1 piece
- Right front facing — 1 piece
- Left front facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
Also, the armhole areas on the back, pocket opening, and garment hem are interfaced.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interlining.
- On the back, stitch the darts, press the seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press the center seam allowances open.
- On the front, stitch the darts, press the seam allowances downwards. Attach the pocket bag to the center front part and side front part. On the front, stitch the princess seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bag. Press the seam allowances open, clipping the corner on the side front part. Press the pocket towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press the elbow seam of the sleeve towards the upper part. Make buttonholes on the sleeve. Cut a strip of lining fabric 6 cm wide, with a length equal to the sleeve width. Fold 1 cm inwards and press along the long sides. Place on the wrong side of the sleeve and stitch along the marking lines, forming a casing. Start and end the stitching strictly at the sleeve allowance. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam, without catching the lining fabric for the casing. Along the upper edge of the sleeve cap, stitch with a small stitch length. Gather the fullness and ease the cap. Set the sleeves into the armhole, matching the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing, press the seam allowances open.
- Fold the collar stands right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Trim the seam allowances, clip curves, turn right side out and press. Attach the collar stand to the coat neckline.
- Press up the hem allowance of the garment. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Pin the front facing and the upper part of the garment and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Stitch the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Set in the sleeves. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Thread the decorative ribbon through the casing.
