Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: Coat fabrics, double-sided non-fraying fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, neoprene. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: 4 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 0.5 cm; hem allowance for coat bottom and sleeve – 0 cm; outer allowances for collar and front edge – 0 cm, for pocket bag, welt, and facing – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Front sleeve part — 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Collar - 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. End the stitching at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the darts on the back pieces. Press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam with allowances to the outside.
- Stitch the bust darts on the front, if provided according to size. Press the bust dart depths upwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams with allowances to the outside.
- Set the collar into the neckline and along the lapel line with allowances to the outside.
- Stitch the sleeve seams with allowances to the outside, set the sleeves into the armholes.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
