Hooded Belted Flared Coat
A women's flared coat, around knee length, with a three-piece hood, princess seams front and back, single-welt pockets and a single-breasted four-button front. Fully lined, worn with a self-fabric tie belt.
When To Wear
- In autumn and early spring, with the hood as cover against wind and rain.
- Over dresses and skirts: the skirt part flares from the waist and leaves room for fuller hems.
- With trousers and knitwear for everyday wear, belt tied in a bow at the front.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice by princess seams, flaring from the waist to the hem.
Length: Around the knee.
Collar: No collar; a hood made of two side pieces and a centre panel is set into the neckline. It is lined in lining fabric and finished at the face edge with a hood facing.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Front: Princess seams from the armhole to the hem; single-breasted, four buttons, with separate front facings.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets in the front panels, below the waist.
Back: Centre back panel with shoulder darts and princess seams to the side back panels.
Waist: Separate self-fabric belt tied at the front.
Lining: Full lining of body, sleeves and hood, cut minus the front facings, back neck facing and hood facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, two-piece sleeves with eased caps, a lined hood set between the coat and the facings, and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coat fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, hood facing, back neck facing, welts; also armhole areas, pocket openings, coat and sleeve hems)
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 1 piece
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood – 1 piece
- Hood facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 1 piece
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood – 1 piece
- Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Center front — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Hood facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
Also, duplicate the armhole areas on the back and front, pocket opening, bottom of the garment, and sleeves. Attention! Lining pieces are cut deducting the width of the front facing, back neckline facing, and hood facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- On the center back, stitch the shoulder darts, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
- Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the pocket facing to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overlock the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Attach the side hood pieces to the center piece, press allowances open. Set the hood into the garment neckline, clip allowances, press open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances open.
- Attach the side hood pieces of the lining to the center piece, press allowances open. Attach the hood facing to the lining, press allowances towards the facing. Set the hood into the neckline of the front facings and neckline facing, clip allowances at curves, press open.
- Overlock and press the hem allowance of the garment bottom to the wrong side. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Pin the front facing and the top of the garment and stitch along the front edge and around the hood. Stitch the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the fronts to the right side, straighten the seams. Secure the allowances of the hood insertion seams together close to the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Along the upper edge of the sleeve cap, stitch with a small stitch length. Gather the ease and shrink it. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch darts and seams, set in sleeves. Overlock, fold, and topstitch the lower edge of the lining. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt to the right side. Close the opening.
