FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in related or contrasting colors.
Fabric & Materials
ALSO NEEDED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 2 zippers; 1 separating zipper; shoulder pads.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side lower front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Side upper front part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: The back yoke lining piece is cut according to the main fabric pattern, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the relevant pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke.
- Stitch the upper and lower side front parts, press allowances upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Attach the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the lining.
- On the left front, stitch the princess seam, inserting the left part of the zipper tape, press allowances open. Stitch the right princess seam of the front, press allowances open.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press allowances open.
- Attach the right part of the zipper to the edge of the right front facing, with teeth pointing away from the edge. Place the front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, collar edge, and lower corner of the front. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces to the right side. Topstitch along the front edge and collar at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press allowances of the lining.
- Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment to the right side, straighten seams.
- Mark and press up the allowance of the lower edge to the wrong side. Finish the lower edge with lining. Turn the garment to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Finish the lower edge of the sleeve with lining. Stitch the technical opening closed.
