Wide Collar Asymmetrical Zipper Jacket
Introducing a chic women's jacket pattern featuring a distinctive wide collar, an asymmetrical front zipper, and stylish zippered welt pockets.
When To Wear
This jacket is perfect for adding a touch of contemporary elegance to various occasions, making it an excellent choice for:
- Transitional Weather: Ideal for layering during spring or autumn due to its structured yet comfortable design.
- Smart Casual Outings: Elevates everyday looks for lunch, shopping, or informal gatherings.
- Evening & Event Styling: A sophisticated alternative to a blazer for a modern, polished appearance.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A tailored, fitted jacket with a sharp, contemporary profile, finishing at the hip.
Neckline & Collar: Features a prominent wide collar with notched lapels that can be worn open or stand up for extra warmth and style.
Closure: An eye-catching asymmetrical separating zipper provides a modern and functional front closure.
Sleeves: Classic long set-in sleeves with a tailored fit.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with zipper closures are integrated into the front panel seams.
Front Details: Distinctive vertical princess seams and horizontal panel seams create a flattering and structured front.
Back Details: Features a back yoke and vertical princess seams for shaping and a polished finish.
Length: Finishes at the hip, offering a versatile length for pairing with skirts or trousers.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, including precise zipper insertion for both the asymmetrical front and welt pockets, as well as accurate lining and collar construction.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured fabrics with some body to best support the design's shape and tailoring:
- Coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 2 zippers (for pockets)
- 1 separating zipper (for front closure)
- Shoulder pads
Fabric recommendations: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in related or contrasting colors.
Fabric & Materials
Also needed: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 2 zippers; 1 separating zipper; shoulder pads.
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3.5 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side lower front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
Attention: The back yoke lining piece is cut according to the main fabric pattern, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the relevant pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke.
- Stitch the upper and lower side front parts, press allowances upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Attach the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the lining.
- On the left front, stitch the princess seam, inserting the left of the zipper tape, press allowances open. Stitch the right princess seam of the front, press allowances open.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press allowances open.
- Attach the right of the zipper to the edge of the right front facing, with teeth pointing away from the edge. Place the front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, collar edge, and lower corner of the front. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces to the right side. Topstitch along the front edge and collar at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press allowances of the lining.
- Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment to the right side, straighten seams.
- Mark and press up the allowance of the lower edge to the wrong side. Finish the lower edge with lining. Turn the garment to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Finish the lower edge of the sleeve with lining. Stitch the technical opening closed.
