Coat with Fur Trim Cuffs

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; a hidden hook and eye, 5 internal buttons, trim for sleeves.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve bottom – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back lining - 2 pieces
  • Front lining - 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Fly lining – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open and overcast up to the waist. Attach the back yoke to the back, press allowances upwards.
3. Attach the front yoke to the front, press allowances upwards.
4. Mark the buttonhole opening with three lines on the right front facing's right side: the first line is parallel to the front edge and 1.5 cm from the finished front edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the interfaced facing onto the right side of the front facing, right side down, moving from the front edge, aligning the edge of the facing and the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the buttonhole opening up to the lines defining its length. Place the second buttonhole facing butt-to-butt against the stitching of the first facing and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the facings' attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the buttonhole. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the buttonhole opening. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced facing, equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing line into the seam of the facing attachment. Press the second facing towards the inner edge of the front facing and stitch a securing line 0.1 cm from the facing attachment seam. Mark and overcast buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the front facing together with the interfaced facing. Straighten and secure the ends of the opening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the edges of the facings. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the front facing.
5. Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open.
6. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing. Press allowance open.
7. Fold the upper collar with the undercollar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press.
8. Place the front facing onto the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten seams.
9. Attach the undercollar to the coat neckline, and the upper collar to the back neckline facing and front facings. Press collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow and front sleeve seams. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap.
11. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Overcast seam allowances from bottom to waist. Turn up the bottom edge allowance of the lining twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch.
12. Overcast, press, and hand-stitch the hem allowance of the garment bottom with blind stitches. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Start and end stitching at half the width of the main garment's bottom hem allowance. Slash the allowance on the inner edge of the front facing at the beginning of the lining attachment. Fold the front facing allowance from the bottom line to the slash inwards and hand-stitch with blind stitches. Overcast the lining attachment seam and press towards the lining.
13. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Press the seam towards the lining. Sew trim to the sleeve.
14. Sew the hook to the inside of the right front, sew the eye to the left front.