Tailored Notched Collar Mid-Thigh Coat

Name: Tailored Notched Collar Mid-Thigh Coat
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4793
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4793

A women's unlined single-breasted coat of mid-thigh length in non-fraying double-faced fabric, with a notched collar, four buttons, two-piece sleeves and single-welt pockets. All seams are sewn with the allowances on the outside, and the hem, sleeve ends, front edges and collar edges are left as clean cut edges. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: coating fabrics, double-faced non-fraying fabrics of natural or blended fibres, neoprene.

Tech. Description

Tailored Coat

When To Wear

In autumn and spring over dresses, knitwear or trousers.
As a light coat for work and everyday wear, worn open or buttoned.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by back darts and a centre back seam, widening slightly towards the hem.

Length: Mid-thigh.

Collar: Notched collar sewn into the neckline and along the gorge line with the seam allowances on the outside; the outer edges have no allowance and stay as cut edges.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (front and back sleeve), seamed with the allowances on the outside.

Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons with buttonholes; the front edges are cut edges with no facing.

Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts: a welt folded in half, with a smaller and a bigger pocket bag and an underlay piece.

Back: Centre back seam sewn with the allowances on the outside, and a dart on each back piece.

Finishing: Bust darts on the fronts only in the sizes that have them, pressed upwards. Side and shoulder seams are also sewn with the allowances on the outside; seam allowances are 0.5 cm.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Welt pockets, a collar set along the gorge line, and exposed seams that must be stitched evenly because the allowances stay visible on the right side.

Fabric Recommendations

Coating fabrics, double-faced non-fraying fabrics of natural or blended fibres, neoprene.

Additional Supplies

4 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 0.5 cm; coat hem and sleeve hem allowance – 0 cm; outer edges of the collar and front edge – 0 cm; pocket bags, welt and underlay piece – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Mark the pocket placement on the Front. Press the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Topstitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the Front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the Bigger Pocket Bag to the Front along the upper pocket marking line. End both stitching lines exactly at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welt and the Bigger Pocket Bag through the opening to the wrong side. Secure the pocket ends on the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the pocket bag edges together.
Stitch the darts on the Back pieces and press them towards the center. Stitch the center back seam with the allowances on the outside.
Stitch the bust darts on the Fronts, if your size has them. Press the darts upwards.
Stitch the side and shoulder seams with the allowances on the outside.
Stitch the Collar into the neckline and along the gorge line, with the allowances on the outside.
Stitch the sleeve seams (Front Sleeve to Back Sleeve) with the allowances on the outside, then set the sleeves into the armholes.
Make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.